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Princeton geneticists are rewriting the narrative of Neanderthals and other ancient humans

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Brooks, Gitai, Krienen and Skinnider win prestigious NIH awards

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Endowment continues to provide foundation for Princeton’s groundbreaking research, innovative scholarship and national leadership on college affordability

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Wool Applique + Thread Embroidery + Beads = Happy Quilts!!!

Oh dear, busy me, four months since I've posted here. Lots of quilting, a little beading, some travels, and recently several sets of house guests have made "retirement" a bit of a joke. For now, since the La Conner Quilt Festival is just around the corner (October 2-4), my subject is one small exhibition on the first floor at the Museum, which is currently up, and will remain through the Festival.

Last year at the Festival (and again this year!) Sue Spargo taught workshops on her wool applique embroidery methods. Those of us who were lucky enough to get in were invited by the Museum to exhibit our finished pieces. These marvelous creations are the subject of this post. Uneven lighting makes it difficult to get good photos, so please forgive poor color or tone on some of these photos.

In case you are unfamiliar with Sue's work, below is an example of her work. Students in her class could choose to make chicks, circles, or flowers. Most chose the chicks. Eight of her students are showing their work in the current exhibit.

My vote for the most awesome-creative piece goes to Bunny Starbuck for She Has Flown the Coop! Here it is:

Having put my chicks all in neat rows similar to Sue's example, I find it amazing that Bunny's mind took the idea and made a whole different story of it... a coop full of chicks, with two in line on the roof ready to follow the one already in the air. Don't you just love the way the lines divide the space?!




Note Bunny's use of whispy yarn to suggest little chick feathers, her use of snaps for eyes, the one chick turned full front, the one with a bead-tassled braid and glasses, and the one with beaded loop fringe and a gathered yellow ribbon (?) yo-yo. I love them! I'm in awe, Bunny!

Below is Chicks on Parade by Dorie Benson. It's so fun the way they are so close together, with two of them going in a different direction, just as you might see in a little cluster of chicks. If you click the photo to enlarge it, you can see some of Dorie's excellent stitching and hand quilting!

The next one is Chicks by Glenys Baker, who not only did all 36 chicks but also made a second quilt featuring circles (shown further down). Awesome work, Glenys!

And next is Birds of a Feather Can Dance Together by Lorraine Jones. The fun of the title is matched by the fun of Lorraine's embellishments, including her border treatment. (You'll have to see this one in person, because the light from a table lamp, made the lower corner of the photo look terrible.)

I guess most of us like to "swim the other way," as you can see in the next piece, Chickadees, by Carrie Unick. I thought many of Corrie's embellishments were especially fun and creative, so I've also included a couple of detail photos.




Last of the chicks is my piece, simply named Chicks. It was so much fun, that I made another small piece (also in the exhibition), shown at the top of this post. Both are displayed in shadow-box type frames to protect them from dust and moth damage.

Glenys Baker, in one year, made not only a 36-chicks quilt (shown above), but also a 48-circles quilt, Circles. How she keeps thinking of new embellishment variations I can't imagine. Yet each of her circles is completely unique! Her choice of border fabrics is perfect for the quilt, complimenting the flow of color among the circles.


I love the fun color combinations and the way the beads enhance her embroidery on Nancy Anders' Bodacious Blooms, a joyful wall quilt if ever there was one! (Again, I couldn't quite get the color right in the photo, so you'll just have to go to the Museum to see it in person.)


The name of Roberta Roberts' flower quilt, Memories, invites us to look closely at the flower with three ladybugs. I don't know the story, but I can tell there is one here... and I love that. Her embellishments are varied and fun as well.



There you have it... 10 quilts by 8 students who learned some methods of wool applique and embroidery from Sue Spargo, last year at the La Conner Quilt Festival. I'm so grateful to be one of them!




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Quilters, Beaders, and Embroiders are the World's Most Generous People!


The quilting community is awesomely generous!!!  Thanks to all who have sent me scraps for making hexie flowers:

Lunnette Higdon Hertel
Judy Lynn
Nancy Anders
Kris Phillips
Carol Holland
Bobbi Pohl
Debbie Schnabel
Sue Shufel
Phyllis Petersen
Thom Atkins
Sabine Keichel
Yvonne Morrill
Sylvia Griffin
Christmas Cowell

I really understand and appreciate that it takes time to sort through your scraps, selecting some that you feel might work for me, packing them to send, getting them to the post office. In some cases, you even took time to cut them into 2" squares for me... WOW! Bless your hearts!

The most interesting thing is that all the fabrics I've received so far are ones I might have picked myself, yet so far there are no duplicates. As of Oct. 19th, I have cut petal sets for about 650 flowers (from my own scraps and fat quarter stash, as well as scraps I've received from other quilters), all of them unique! That's about 90% of what I need to make the quilt, and certainly enough to keep me busy for a looooooong time. It will probably take me a year or so to baste and stitch all of the flowers, although I admit to going at it with a lot of gusto.




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Brother & Sister: Both Quilters & Beaders

My brother, Thom Atkins, is a very talented quilt and bead artist!


He's written a popular book about how to make beaded quilts.


Recently he sent me a wonderful birthday present - a box of his scraps to use for making hexie flowers for my in-progress, hand-pieced, hexie quilt. Forty-nine different fabrics makes quite a stack of flowers.


Here they are again, this time arranged on a flat surface (click photo to enlarge for details). It's way fun to play with the flowers, re-arranging them in different ways, re-stacking them, and then spreading them out again.


All the while I was cutting, basting, and stitching these flowers I was thinking about Thom, about our history and our mutual love of stitching. I recognized most of the fabrics. One was in a quilt we made 19 years ago for our mom's 80th birthday. Some were from blouses, dresses, shirts he made for himself and his wife. Some were from pillows and other home decor he made for their home. Some were from his early quilts. Most of them brought up a ton of memories for me!

I always like (and sometimes love) things that Thom makes, and yet I've also noticed when we are in a fabric store together, we do not gravitate toward the same fabrics. I wouldn't have guessed that I would use almost every one of the fabric scraps he sent. There were a few that were too glitzy, had a stronger metallic look than I like. But 90% or more could have come from my own stash. That's how much I like them.... leaving me to conclude that we are more alike than I thought.


Here we are as kids... book ends.  Me 16 months older than him.

What's it like when brother and sister, close in age, are both quilters and beaders, both of us entering our quilts in shows, both of us teaching workshops and writing books?

Are we competitive?

A little, but not very much in my opinion. I admit to being a little "nervous" when he took up bead embroidery a few years after I make it the focus of both my art and my career. In artistic matters, he has a quicker learning curve than I do, rapidly achieving excellence in any medium he tries.

The fact that he likes bling and representational, while I like matte and symbolic, makes our work look different, which helps. We're also very different in our approach to quilt designing. While I am heavily influenced by traditional quilts, his quilts are all "art quilts." Most of his are heavily beaded, while mine are mostly not. Right from the start, he usually has a complete "picture" in his mind of what his quilt will look like when finished; whereas I rarely have a clue what mine will be like until I'm nearly finished with it.

Nor have we had issues with our teaching. I mostly teach beaders, emphasizing bead embroidery techniques rather than projects. He mostly teaches quilters, concentrating on methods for sewing beads onto quilts. There are enough teaching opportunities for both of us to accept as many gigs as we can handle.

What's the best thing about our mutual passions for beading and quilting?

Well, we talk on the phone for hours at a time about our current projects. Our conversations would bore everybody else in our families to death, but for us it's exciting to share our ideas, challenges, and victories. We do it often! It seems each of us has always respected the artistic sensibility and skills of the other. It's great to have somebody you can count on to say, "That's really wonderful," when you show them your latest work.

We also share information about photography, opportunities for showing our quilts, inspirations, promotion of our books, and countless other related things. We help each other to solve problems and to grow artistically.

It seems pretty ideal; was it always like that?

If you've read my first book, One Bead at a Time, available here as a free download, you know that Thom grew up favored to be the artist in the family, showing his talents at a very early age. My bend was more academic, although I had no clear pathway. After majoring in art in college, Thom rapidly became established as an artist. After majoring in English and psychology, I muddled around in a couple of careers for many years. I didn't discover my passion for beading or start to think of myself as an artist until I was 46 years old. Until then I always admired Thom's art, but didn't relate directly to him about it. I'm glad it is different now; glad we are both talented and creative... together!






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How to Frame Bead Embroidery



During the past 28 years of stitching beads on cloth, I've veered away from making necklaces, bracelets, and bags or purses, mostly producing wall art pieces. Thus, I've had lots of opportunities to experiment with various methods of finishing and framing my work, making it suitable for display.


I always leave ample fabric margins surrounding the actual beaded area, giving me lots of options for finishing or framing.  One simple finishing method is to wrap the extra fabric around the sides of a manufactured painting-canvas (over stretcher-bars), and lace the fabric snugly across the back, as in the photo below.


But the problem with this method, of course, is that the surface of the beading is exposed to dust and air-borne grime, which over the years may spoil the fresh look of the beading, aging the piece prematurely. So we look to frames and glass to protect our work.

Among the various methods for covering (and protecting) beadwork with glass, the following is the one I use most frequently, and like the best.  It's not very expensive, or particularly difficult, although it does take a bit of time. Even if you already know about frames, please take a look at the section called Preparing Your Bead Embroidery for Framing in the Tutorial below.

Tutorial: How to Frame bead Embroidery

Choosing a Frame

This tutorial assumes the beaded work has straight sides, and will be framed in a square or rectangular frame. The frame size, color, and style are important considerations.

Wanting viewers to look at my beading and not be distracted by an overly fancy, gaudy, or large frame, I generally select a plain, narrow frame in a color that compliments my beading without competing for the viewer's attention. Sometimes I choose a stained, wooden frame if it seems to fit the theme of my beadwork better than a metal frame. Depending on the size of my beadwork, I generally size my frame at 2-3 inches more on each side than the beadwork.

Frame: Often I use a painted, metal frame with a cross section similar to this.


I either buy it as a kit (pre-cut pieces and required assembly hardware), assembling it myself, or buy it from a frame shop. The advantage of buying from a framer is that you will be able to see samples. Also, the framer can cut an accurate mat, foam core insert, and backing board for you, and can supply the needed risers. If you decide to work with a framer, I suggest you print this post (to show the framer how you will be preparing your work for the frame), or take the prepared bead embroidery with you to the frame shop.

Glass: I believe in using the highest quality glass, even though it is a lot more expensive than ordinary glass. The UV resistance is good, but the primary reason for using premium glass is its clarity, which allows the viewer to see the details of your work without any distortions or color shift, as if there were no glass at all.  Note: do not use non-glare glass. It only works if it lies directly on the surface of the art. You will be putting risers under the glass so it sits above the uneven surface of your bead embroidery, not touching any of the beads; even at this slight distance from the beadwork, non-glare glass will look frosted and obscure the details of your work.

Other Framing Materials You Will Need

Mat: Choose a simple, acid-free, neutral-colored mat, either warm or cool white, depending on the emotional message and colors in your work. All those beautiful colors in the framer's palette are appealing, but for most bead embroidery, there is color and texture enough in the beads, and no value in adding more with your mat choice. If you do not have a mat cutter, a framer can cut your mat. Although I have not ever used a double mat (because I find them distracting, bringing my eyes away from the beadwork to the edges), it could be a way to gain a little more space for the glass above the beadwork.



Risers: Dense plastic rods, risers are 1/8th inch square in cross-section, with an adhesive surface on one side. Use a wire nipper to cut the rods to fit along the outer edge of the glass; remove the paper strips covering the adhesive from the the risers, adhering them to the glass along the edges, as shown above. They prevent the glass from touching your beadwork, by resting on the outer edge of the mat, thus holding the glass above the beaded surface. If the surface height of your beadwork is greater, you can adhere two rods together, making a quarter-inch of space. If the depth is more than a quarter-inch, you might want to consider mounting your work in a shadowbox frame (see this post for a good example and instructions).

3/16th Inch Foam Core Board: Since your beadwork will be mounted directly into this foam core board, be sure to use the white, acid-free, buffered, slightly more expensive variety. You can buy it at art supply or frame shops, in person or on line. You will need a piece at least 3 inches larger than your bead embroidery on each side.

 Preparing Your Bead Embroidery for Framing 

 
The piece above is the example used in the the steps which follow. It's a small piece of bead embroidery, measuring only 1-3/4 inches wide by 2-1/4 inches high. The mat is 2 inches larger on each side. Numerous folks have surprised me with high offers to buy this piece (which is not for sale), illustrating that nicely framed bead embroidery can be sold at a favorable price.

Mounting your bead embroidery in foam core board 

As per the recommendations in the frame section above, draw the frame size (which will always be designated by the inside dimensions, the size of the artwork) on a piece of 3/16th inch foam core. Use a mat knife and ruler to accurately cut out this shape.

Then, measuring carefully, making sure it is exactly centered, draw lines to indicate the outline of your bead embroidery, adding 1/2 inch on each side. For example, if your beaded area was 2 inches wide, you would draw your lines 3 inches apart (2" for the beadwork plus 1/2 inch on each side). Designate one edge as the top, and mark. Draw a vertical arrow from the top through part of the center through part of the outside margin. With a mat knife, cut out the center, being careful not to damage it or the outside frame. The cut out center will eventually be placed back in the hole by aligning the arrow segments drawn on the back.

For the next step, you will need at least a 1.5 inch margin of un-beaded fabric all around your beadwork. If you have less than a 1.5 inch margin, cut strips of any cotton fabric (re-purposed sheet or shirt fabric is fine). Using a zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine, and placing the strips under the margin of the beaded fabric (wrong side), stitch the strips to the margins, extending them to a total of 1.5 inch from the edges of your beadwork on the top, bottom, and both sides.

Center your beadwork on the cut-out piece of foam core board. Hold in place using map or sewing pins, pushed straight through the beading down into the board. Wrap the fabric snugly around the board and pin from the back. Remove the pins from the front. Check to make sure the work is still centered accurately. Re-pin if necessary. Using a sewing needle and beading thread, stitch from side to side, lacing the fabric around the foam core, as in the example below. Start with the longer sides. Knot when finished. Then do the same on the shorter sides.

Tip: I like to rest the beaded side face down on a thick, folded, bath towel while I am lacing the back.


This is how mine looks on the front after being laced around the foam core board on the back. If I had not wanted to frame this piece, I could have used double-sided, archival tape to adhere a heavy paper backing over the laced area on the back; it could then be displayed on a small stand similar to the one in the second photo from the top of this post.


This is how it looks on the back, when it is placed back in the original hole cut into the foam core board. Notice how the arrows match up, insuring a perfect fit.


This is how it looks on the front. Note: the hole in the mat will be cut exactly to the size of the beadwork, so that when it is framed, you will not see any of the fabric around the outside edge of the beaded area.


Assembling a Bead Embroidery Sandwich


Now it's time to make a sandwich with the foam core board between two pieces of acid-free mat board, one which has a beveled hole cut in the center, the other which is solid and goes on the back.


To cut my own mats, I first measure and draw the exact outline of my bead embroidery centered on the wrong side of the mat. I always mark the top, because sometimes the work is not precisely square or rectangular. Of course you can give the dimensions to a frame shop, and have a professionally-cut mat made for your beadwork.

Tip: One way to get an exact measurement of the beaded area is to make a 100% copy of it on a scanner or copy machine. Cut out the copy with a ruler and mat knife, test it by holding it over your beadwork. If it is exact, use it as a template to mark the hole on the mat board. If the mat is hand-cut, the hole does not have to be precisely square or rectangular.


Using a special, beveled, mat-cutting tool, I then cut away the center, where the beading will show.


Here is how the top and middle of the sandwich looks, with the mat placed on top of the foam core board and beadwork.


The photo above shows a piece of mat board cut for the sandwich back (on the right). Note that I've drawn around the laced beadwork, and cut away a layer of the mat board to make space for the laced fabric in the sandwich. Do this by gently cutting along the drawn lines, being careful not to cut very deeply into the mat. Then, use a knife to lift one corner of the inside area and peel it back creating a shallow empty space.


This is what the completed sandwich looks like. The beading is supported well between two pieces of mat board, and can't shift when hung. No glue or tape (to later fail or chemically alter the mat or beading) is necessary in this process. And it looks so neat and professional!

Assemble the Frame

With the more challenging steps already completed, the final assembly goes very quickly !


Assemble the bottom and sides of the frame by inserting the metal corner plates, and tightening the tension screws. Insert and tighten the corner plates into the top of the frame. Make a double-decker sandwich by putting the glass with the attached risers on top of the mat. Be sure the glass is clean and clear of any finger prints. Slide the complete d-d-sandwich into the obvious slot in the bottom part of the frame. The hanging wire can be added now or later.


Slip the corner plates at the top of the frame into the slots on the sides, and tighten the tension screws. You should have gotten metal spring strips with your frame kit. Lay them out on the back, spaced evenly around. Push down on the center of a spring and slide it under the edge of the frame, between the backing mat and the frame. Do the same with each of the springs. If you haven't already, add a hanging wire. Add a felt or rubber wall-bumper to each of the lower corners.


That's it! You are finished... your bead embroidery is ready to hang on your wall!  For those who would like a little more detailed step-by-step explanation of how to assemble this type of frame, this is a good one or if you prefer videos, this one is pretty complete.

Tip: Whether using a metal or wooden frame, the depth of the frame is an important consideration because the d-d-sandwich will be thicker than a photograph or most paintings. The measurement of the depth, or space inside the frame structure to accommodate the thickness of the artwork, is called the rabbet. The rabbet measurement on the above metal frame is 9/16th of an inch, which is adequate with a single riser under the glass. But it's a tight fit, the springs having to be nearly flat when inserted. If I had used a double riser, I would need a frame with a deeper rabbet. I've found it rather difficult to find small, narrow, simple, plain, wooden frames with a deep enough rabbet.

Here is a link for downloading this post as a printable PDF. It's a free, and slightly expanded version of what you've seen above. Free Download: How to Frame Bead Embroidery by Robin Atkins




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Jacques Fresco, 'a major figure in the birth of modern molecular biology,' dies at 93

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Pioneering Indian Muslim feminist Rokeya Sakhawat Hossain (1880-1932) wrote speculative science fiction, manifestoes, radical reportage, and incisive essays that transformed her experience of enforced segregation into unique interventions against gender oppression everywhere. Her radical imagination links the realities of living in a British colony to the technological and scientific breakthroughs of her time, the effects of hauntingly pervasive systems of sexual domination, and collective dreams of the future, forging a visionary, experimental body of work. If her contemporary B. R. Ambedkar urged the “annihilation of caste,” Rokeya demands nothing less than the annihilation of sexism, with education as the primary instrument of this revolution. Her brilliant wit and creativity reflect profoundly on the complexities of undoing deep-seated gender supremacy and summon her readers to imagine hitherto undreamed freedoms.




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Early Modern Nahuatl Workshop

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The post How Modern Technology has Changed the Way we Listen to Music? appeared first on Star Two.




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Hans Christian Andersen

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The post Charles Milander Reveals The Key Components of a Motivational Speech appeared first on Star Two.







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The post Lab-Grown Diamonds: A Modern Marvel appeared first on Star Two.




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How African Indigenous knowledge helped shape modern medicine

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House of Chikankari: Unveiling the Secrets Behind Exquisite Embroidery

Chikankari specialty Step into a world where every thread tells a story and every pattern sings a story song. Chikankari House stands not only as an advertisement but as the custodian of a centuries-old art form. Traditional Indian embroidery is not only preserved here; It is celebrated, nurtured and evolved. Chikankari with its subtle beauty and intricate details weaves the fabric of India’s rich cultural story. Chikankari House: Carrying forward a valuable asset Chikankari-property History and Origins Chikankari House takes great pride in being the torchbearer of an art form that has deep roots in ancient India. Known for its exquisite beauty and subtlety, Chikankari is often associated with the Nawab’s land in Lucknow. This delicate weaving style is believed to have flourished during the Mughal era under the patronage of Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jehangir. Chinkari, however, is more than just embroidery and decoration; It symbolizes an interesting story told through fashion. The story begins in mythology, where Lord Krishna’s wife Radha is said to have expressed her love with unique colorful chikankari patterns embroidered on cloth This Connection imbues chikankari with divine substance and emotional meaning, and owes it and rich textiles of rich cultural heritage again Lucknow is situated. Evolution Over the Years Like a river that changes its course over time yet never abandons its source, Chikankari too went through various transformations over the centuries. Yet, it painstakingly preserved its original essence. Chikankari artisans of the past passed on their art to younger generations, ensuring that it continued with all its skill and fervour. Notable figures in history have contributed to the popularity of this intricate craft over the years. British viceroys, Queen Victoria herself, and more recently, celebrities, and fashion designers have all played crucial roles in keeping Chikankari in the public consciousness. In its nascent stages, Chikankari was typically portrayed in white-on-white embroidery on muslin cloth, epitomizing the essence of understated elegance. Over time, the craft embraced colored threads, sequins, beads, and various fabric types, transforming Chikankari into a versatile and appealing element in modern fashion. Through the eye of the House of Chikankari, this beautiful amalgamation of past and present turns a simple piece of fabric into an alluring canvas. And as the world evolves, so do we, making sure the essence of Chikankari, the legacy of Kesari, continues to enthral generations to come. The Craftsmanship of Chikankari: An Intricate Symphony of Stitches Understanding the Art When it comes to understanding the art of Chikankari, the process begins even before the first stitch is laid. The House of Chikankari starts its crafting journey with the selection of just the right fabric – one that holds onto the charm of the delicate stitches, absorbing the soul of Lucknow into its texture. Traditionally, fabrics like muslin, cotton, and silk have been used owing to their soft texture and durability. The art features multiple unique stitches, each lending a distinctive texture to the piece. One such stitch, traditionally known as the “Bakhia” or the shadow work, stands as the backbone of Chikankari. Symbolic of Chikankari’s subtlety, Bakhia is an intricate technique where the thread’s shadow reflects on the cloth, creating a play of light and shade that brings the fabric to life. The artist behind the craft Behind every piece of Chikankari art from Chikankari House is an artist – patient, dedicated and full of unimaginable skill. They are quiet poets who tell stories through their work, weaving stories of tradition and heritage. Becoming a Chikankari artisan is not a job but a professional journey, often passed down through generations. Their training usually begins at an early age, and they spend years mastering the details – from learning different fabrics to understanding patterns and knots While it’s hard to put a number on the many unsung heroes nurturing this art form, an estimated 2.5 million artists across India are associated with Chikankari, according to the European Center for Development Policy and Management , sources that this art show succeeds on a global stage, spreading the appeal of our cultural heritage far and wide. House of Chikankari Today The House of Chikankari, rooted deeply in traditional artistry, is embracing the winds of change to sail towards modernity with grace and resilience. Today, this time-honored craft marries age-old techniques with contemporary influences, gracefully striding into the global fashion arena. Modern Innovations In the realm of Chikankari, modern technology and evolving fashion sensibilities play pivotal roles in elevating this craft to cater to contemporary tastes without losing its essence. Digital Design and Promotion: Techniques such as digital embroidery design and online marketing are helping Chikankari reach global audiences. The House of Chikankari leverages social media and e-commerce to showcase its intricate designs worldwide. New Materials and Stitches: While preserving the traditional stitches, innovative materials like georgette and net are being used, along with traditional cotton and silk. The inclusion of embellishments such as sequins and beads adds to the allure of modern Chikankari outfits. Fashion Integration: Notable fashion designers and brands, including the House of Chikankari, have been instrumental in incorporating Chikankari into high fashion. Collections showcased at major fashion weeks have featured Chikankari, placing it on the global fashion map. Sustaining the Craft The journey of Chikankari, from the streets of Lucknow to the fashion capitals of the world, has been supported by various efforts to preserve its legacy. Government and NGO Efforts: Initiatives like the Geographical Indications (GI) tag for Lucknow Chikankari by the Indian government have aided in protecting its identity. NGOs and social enterprises collaborate with artisans, providing them with fair wages and better work conditions. Educational Programs: Specialized training programs and workshops aim at skill enhancement and introducing the youth to Chikankari, ensuring the inheritance of this craft by future generations. Exhibitions and Workshops: Events such as the “Chikankari Exhibition” in major cities and the participation of Chikankari craft in international craft fairs increase awareness and appreciation for this delicate embroidery work. Through these efforts, the House of Chikankari not only survives but thrives in the landscape of modern fashion and global markets. The blend of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation ensures that Chikankari remains not just a craft of the past but a living tradition, evolving and growing with each stitch in time. Investing in Chikankari Investing in Chikankari is not just a purchase—it’s an embrace of a heritage, a story woven into fabric. This section provides a comprehensive guide to ensure you select authentic pieces and maintain them, so they last a lifetime. Guide to Buying Chikankari Selecting Authentic Pieces Look for Handcraftsmanship: Authentic Chikankari is hand-embroidered. Look closely at the stitching. Irregularities often indicate handwork, as opposed to the uniform stitches of machine embroidery. Fabric Quality: Traditional Chikankari is done on natural fabrics like cotton, silk, and muslin. A gentle touch and the slightly irregular texture of natural fabrics are good indicators of quality. Design Details: Authentic Chikankari flaunts intricate designs that can range from floral motifs to paisley and geometric patterns. The richness in details often signifies authentic workmanship. Where to Buy: Prefer purchasing from recognized artisans, local markets in Lucknow, or reputable online stores specializing in Chikankari. Some reputable brands connected to the House of Chikankari offer quality assurance. Price Range and Factors Affecting Cost Artisan vs. Mass-Produced: Handcrafted Chikankari pieces, especially those from skilled artisans, will be priced higher than mass-produced ones. The uniqueness and quality justify the cost. Complexity of Work: The more intricate the embroidery and the denser the design, the higher the price. Work that takes longer to produce is naturally more valuable. Fabric Type: The choice of fabric impacts the price. Silk-based Chikankari garments are pricier than those crafted on cotton due to the cost of the material. Caring for Chikankari Garments To ensure your Chikankari pieces remain as timeless as their tradition, following proper care instructions is crucial. Washing Instructions: It’s best to hand wash Chikankari clothes in cold water with a mild detergent. Avoid wringing the fabric harshly. For machine wash, use a gentle cycle. Drying and Ironing: Always dry Chikankari garments in the shade. Direct sunlight can fade the delicate threads. While ironing, place a thin cloth over the garment to prevent direct contact with the iron. Storage: Store Chikankari apparel in a cool, dry place. Use padded hangers for items like sarees and kurtas to avoid creases. For best preservation, wrap the garments in soft, breathable fabric. By following these guidelines, you can invest wisely in Chikankari, ensuring you own a piece of heritage that brings elegance and traditional charm to your wardrobe. This enduring craftsmanship, with the right care, can be part of your legacy, cherished and passed down through generations. Chikankari Future As we navigate the crowded world of fashion and fashion, the House of Chikankari remains open in the face of obstacles and opportunities. Navigating a sea of ​​change, the delicate beauty of embroidery clings to its heritage. Challenges and opportunities Challenges Competition with machine-made products: One of the most important issues is competition from faster and cheaper looms that imitate Chikankari. Preservation of traditional skills: There is a danger that the meticulous skills of Chikankari craftsmen will be lost in today’s fast-paced manufacturing environment. Economic Development: Designers often face financial challenges due to irregular demand for materials and a lot of time spent on crafts. opportunity Design innovation: Innovation that captures the essence of Chikankari while appealing to contemporary aesthetics can create new appeal. Online Marketplace: With the rise of e-commerce, Chikankari offers a global platform, connecting skilled artisans with consumers directly. Sustainable clothing: As consumers become more eco-conscious, demand for sustainable and ethically produced clothing such as chikankari may increase. What is happening in the future Trends in the fashion industry, as well as consumer preferences, point to a different future for Chikankari. There is the possibility that: Fusion Wear: Combine chikankari and western fashion elements for unique outfits. Heritage promotion: The use of chikankari as a contemporary fashion can be a cultural promotion, especially among the youth. Technology integration: Technology can provide immersive shopping experiences such as virtual reality, allowing consumers to interact with artistic origins and stories. conclusion Chikankari House, an Indian heritage fortress plays an important role in traditional handloom weaving. It’s not just historical art preservation; It supports the livelihood of countless artists. Cultural Identity: Supporting Chikankari is like preserving an irreplaceable part of India’s cultural identity. Investing in Heritage: Each purchase of a chikankari is an investment in a tradition that has been handed down for generations. Call to action: Explore the timeless beauty of authentic chikankari embroidery. There is a story embedded in every thread. Sharing history of every purchase. Chikankari House is not just alive; it is adaptive, conquering, and moving forward to meet dog after dog adorned with canine charms. It invites us to be not only spectators but participants in the preservation of this complex art form.

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