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Lomo saltado: Esta receta está llena de exquisitos sabores y texturas que le harán la boca agua a toda la familia. Ingredientes: lomo de cerdo picado en tiras, saltado con papas blancas, pimiento amarillo, pimiento Cubanelle y tomates.

Holiday Pork Loin: Nothing says Christmas like a traditional recipe that brings the family closer with a flavor-filled celebration of aromas, textures, ingredients and, of course, pork. Ingredients: pork loin roast, oranges, garlic, chipotle chilies...

Arroz Con Café Con Leche

Inspirate a Dar

Arroz Con Café Con Leche

Before coronavirus struck New York, one of the world's premier seafood restaurants Le Bernardin was offering tasting menus including striped bass truffle tartare and grilled lobster mi-cuit.  

You've got to eat it, to beat it: That's the philosophy of one Hanoi chef who is attempting to boost morale in the Vietnamese capital by selling green, coronavirus-themed burgers.

Eat with your hands, please," Lloyd Braganza who runs one of Goa's most popular restaurants, tells us, rolling up the sleeves of his floral shirt, revealing a koi fish tattoo. We are at Copper Leaf, one of the best fish thali destinations at Porvorim, and for company we have chef and restauranteur Braganza, his wife Nerissa and their seven-year-old son Naethan. Llyod stops talking when the thali arrives. A mound of rice and a crispy fillet of matzo are skirted by coconut curry, clams masala, kismuri (dried fish and coconut salad), bhindi fry, gulab jamun, sol kadi and banana.

"This is Goa's most authentic thali, and locals as well as tourists come here for their fill," Marissa tells us. The fish has a sweet freshness, and the curry is hearty. The meal switches on our sussegad mood. But, there's more to this stop than indulging in gluttony. Six years after enticing Goans with delicious meals at his eatery, House of Lloyd, the family is set to open shop in Mumbai and ahead of its launch, the Braganzas are happy to give us a tour of their Goa-inspired menu.

The pork chops

Fish Market: The next stop is the Malim jetty where most of the fresh catch of the day coming in from along the coast is sold. Scenes of women haggling over prices, to fishermen unloading their catch and slicing the guts, greet us. We see ribbon fish, ponies and sole fish drying in the sun, apart from mud crabs piled in open crates.

Yeast Ecpected, Poie: We are at a nameless bakery. We enter a small room that opens into a dungeon-like opening with a woodfire oven burning a crimson orange. In a corner, a mixer is folding dough. One of the bakers, Gajanand Naik, shows off a basket full of poie. "At midnight, we start making poie. The dough is mixed for 30
minutes and left to rest for three hours," says Naik. Made from husk and wheat, the art of poie has lost a prominent ingredient — the toddy. When the Portuguese introduced the bread in Goa, they replaced yeast with locally available toddy.

Plum and white chocolate with vodka

Rassa Omelette: Our next stop is, again, an unnamed snack stall. "You are known by your product. There's no need for a name," Braganza laughs. A server puts a fat chunk of omelette on a plate and drowns it in rassa. We tear a piece of poie, that soaks up the gravy. The fluffy omelette and poie do little to douse the spice notes from the Kashmiri chillies and garam masala giving the curry its kick.

Fruit Cocktails Pork chops and Serradura: Our final stop is at House of Llyod, situated on the veranda of his 150-year-old ancestral home. Braganza has thrown over a chef's coat over his shorts and is busy behind the bar. Christmas seems to have come early as we alternate between a green jalepeno-passion fruit cocktail and a vodka-spiked plum and white chocolate. No sugar, juice or additives, the cocktails are blitzed on order. Braganza's food sings a melodious tune, one whose lyrics have been written over years oscillating between struggle and success. In 1996, his first venture was Chopsticks, a Chinese restaurant at Baga, which put him on the Goa culinary map. "I had no culinary degree and brought on board a chef from Royal China in Mumbai, to help. By 25, I had money and luxury cars. Then, I had to shut shop because of losses, " says Braganza. He began at the lowest rung, again, as waiter. In 2003, he opened Lloyds, a five-table Goan and barbeque restaurant in Calangute. Partners drove his business to closure in 2011. "Nerissa coaxed me to give it one more try. It would be my last one, I told her," Braganza recalls. The same year, together they rebuilt the restaurant on the current premise — a tile-roof open-air tent that gives the feel of a garden setting overlooking the heritage property. She took charge of the front of the house, and he revisited his childhood to master family recipes with his mother.

The Juhu outpost. Pic/Ashish Raje

Soul Food: Goan food, says Branganza, is meant to be consumed two days after it has been cooked. The gravies thicken from concentration of flavours. We understand this when we dip a garlic poie into a bowl of bloody red sorpotel. The spares have merged with the spices and transformed the curry with meaty flavour. This dish is one of the most tedious to make, Braganza says. "First, you boil the meat, dice it, and fry the parts separately. After frying the onions, you add the meat that will hold the masala," says Braganza. While it is best served three days later, chef has a serving reserved for himself that is two years old. For the Mumbai outlet, all the house curries and sauces, along with poie, will come from Goa. The most awaited dish — the barbeque grilled pork chops — makes an entry. "This takes me back to my heydays. At Lloyd's, when I fired the grill, people would follow the aromas to order the dish that was smelling so delicious," says Braganza, falling silent when the dish arrives. The meal ends with Marissa's serradura, a classic cream and biscuit pudding. The dry powder is soothed by the creamy condensed milk mush and we lick our spoons clean. We can't wait to have the next serving back home. Mr and Mrs Braganza, welcome to Mumbai.

Chef Lloyd Braganza with wife Nerissa and son Naethan

Also read - Mumbai Food: Chef Raji Gupta's pop up offers flavours from Kerala to Goa

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When the trailer of Shank’s hit the Internet two years ago, it garnered over 2,00,000 views in under a fortnight. And, why not? Until then we had not really seen stylised montages of modaks and varan bhaat being served in a fine-dining ambience. The trailer had us curious about Ashay Dileep Javadekar’s film, which looked like a documentary. Where is this Shank’s, the Marathi fine-dining place, we wondered. Two years on, with the release of the film online, we have the answers.

The 1 hour, 11 minute-long film, shot on a Canon Powershot and iPhone 6, traces the journey of Shashank Joshi, a man who nurtured and nourished his dream of being a chef, right from his boyhood days in a small town in Maharashtra. We know him, little by little, through his family, especially one cousin he is close to. We know him through his college friend, through food critics and historians, and most importantly, his mentor’s daughter Pauline with whom he has the most extraordinary journey. We see how he had to fight the odds, and nearly give up before he makes his dream a reality.

Bhave in a still from the film

A generous part of the film is made of lush close-up shots of Maharashtrian food that is sure to get Indians, especially those from the state, excited. And for Westerners, well, it’s Indian food like they have never seen before — a far cry from tandoori chicken, paneer masala and dal makhni. The screenplay uses a documentary narrative to tell a fictional story. Javadekar seems to be an ardent believer of the phrase: God is in the details. The care with which each character has been crafted, from dialogues to props and their stories, you forget that none of it is real. That’s also because of the convincing performances the actors bring to the table. Makarand Bhave becomes Shashank, in the controlled passion with which he narrates his story. Playing Pauline Bonnet-Joshi, his partner in crime, is Melissa Ehrlich Blevins. She brings so many moods into her account, from compassion, to vulnerability, excitement, and determination. The supporting cast is also impressive.

Besides telling an absorbing story, Shank’s makes us ponder on questions like how the West perceives Indian cuisine, the importance of educating customers on the food, and also, the gender bias in the industry, a reality that is larger than we wish to acknowledge. Food for thought, quite literally. The film can be streamed seamlessly, at a reasonable price on a pay-per-view platform. Shank’s heroes Maharashtrian food like never before, but, more than that it urges dreamers, aspiring restaurateurs in this case, to make their real voices heard. Minus a few rough edges in production, the film might remind you of Chef’s Table. That’s interesting because when this film was made, Chef’s Table was yet to hit the screen. A word of caution though: Do not watch it on an empty stomach, unless you are looking to work up an appetite.

Log on to: www.njemovies.com
Price: Rs 99

Scenes from the play 

Stopping by a vada pav stall for a quick, satiating bite on a busy day or tucking into a sev-chutney laden Bombay sandwich, as breakfast at the office is a quintessential Mumbai experience. But who are the people who wake up at the crack of dawn to prep food that they then dish out with assembly line-like precision for the rest of the day? At the rates at which they sell the fare, what counts as profit? And do the exigencies of being on the street eat into it? If these are questions that have crossed your mind, find answers to them at the Mumbai premiere of Stand on the Street, a physical theatre performance spanning four acts that tell the stories of four street vendors from across India.

"Originally, the performance was commissioned for the Serendipity Arts Festival in Goa last year by chef [and the festival's culinary arts curator] Manu Chandra. We had worked on the smell and memory aspects of food earlier, and this time, the idea was to explore taste as the primary sense in the performance," shares director Aruna Ganesh Ram. She adds that the dishes that the vendors sell in the play - jhal muri, a spicy puffed rice preparation from Bengal; sundal, a yellow pea fried snack from Tamil Nadu; momos, a popular street food from Delhi; litti chokha from Bihar; and paan from Varanasi - will also be served to the audience. "Chef Chandra was keen on picking dishes that went beyond the popular items, which is why we don't have pav bhaji or dosa in the play," she says.

"We wanted the audience to eat, listen, and watch these performers behind their masks capture the essence of the country, not in a particular time period but over the last couple of decades. It became a metaphor for the prevailing socio-political conditions in India, but never obviously so," says Chandra.

Chef Manu Chandra

As part of their research, Aruna and her team - consisting of actors Anjana Balaji and Aditya Garg, who play all 10 characters in the play - fanned out across India to meet 250 street food vendors and listen to their stories. "We realised that a vast majority of the vendors had left their hometowns to embrace a new city for life. And they all shared a common dream - they did not want their children to suffer like them," says Aruna.

The masks, which the actors wear throughout the performance, give it a sense of universality. "After all, this is not the story of one particular character, but of the many street vendors with whom our association is no more than a flitting transaction," she says. What also emerged in the research was the politics of being on the street, from dust and pollution to having to pay bribes, and dealing with the nuisance of barking dogs.

"A momo vendor from Mangalore spoke of the irony of customers, used to eating frozen momos at restaurants, finding the taste of her fresh dumplings, odd," Aruna recalls, adding that the play weaves in the instance of the call for a momo ban that had surfaced in Jammu last year. On the day of the performance, the team is up at 5 am to prepare all five dishes from scratch. "If we have to internalise their stories, we must live their life," Aruna sums up.

From: April 25 to 27, 8 pm (The Cuckoo Club, Bandra West); April 28, 6.30 pm and 29, 8 pm (Piramal Museum of Art, Byculla)
Log on to: bookmyshow.com
Entry: Rs 499

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There are various global versions of the food we eat, depending on the ingredients and regional produce. I have travelled around the globe and found, for example, that many countries have their own variations of our halwa.

Halwa refers to many dense, thick and sweet confections across South, Central and West Asia, North Africa, the Horn of Africa, the Balkans, Central Europe, Malta and the Jewish world.

Sesame halwa is popular in Balkan countries such as Poland and in the Middle East. In the Mediterranean region, sesame butter and tahini paste are the key ingredients, besides sugar or glucose. Eastern European countries like Belarus, Romania, Bosnia and Russia use sunflower seeds to make halwa.

While touring Turkey extensively to research for my book On the Kebab Trail, I found that they too have a halwa like our candyfloss called floss halwa. Floss halwa is a traditional sweet, made by flossing thin strands of halwa into a light confection. Made primarily of wheat flour and sugar, the strands are continuously wrapped into a ball and then compressed. The result is a halwa with a light consistency. It is made in regular and pistachio flavours.

The most popular form of halwa in Bahrain is a jelly-like sweet called halwa Bahraini, which is called rehash in Kuwait. In Egypt, halwa is a popular confection that is relatively inexpensive and comes in pistachio, chocolate and mixed nut flavours, though they are sesame seed based.

Sesame halwa is a classic dessert in Greece and Cyprus. Halwa-halvardeh is the Iranian name for their tahini-based halwa, which includes whole pistachio nuts. Ardeh is processed sesame in the form of a paste, usually sweetened with sugar. Halwa made with flour, butter and sugar is spread on a plate in a thin layer and is often flavoured with rose water.

Monish Gujral

Halwa came to Russia from Central Asia. Halwa containing bars, cakes or waffles (with or without chocolate, nuts or seeds) are now widespread.

Alva, as halwa is called in Serbia, is common to the whole region and popular at local church fairs around the country. Xalwo, a staple of Somalian cuisine, is a popular confection served during special occasions, such as Eid and wedding receptions. It is made with sugar, cornstarch, powdered cardamom and nutmeg, clarified butter and some local flavours, to enhance taste.

Aluva is served at the traditional Sri Lankan New Year in April. This halwa is generally made with rice flour and sugar. Cashew nuts are often added for taste. In Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, the traditional name for halwa is lavz. Soft sesame halwa is made with sugar syrup, egg whites and sesame seeds. Solid sesame halwa is made with pulled sugar, which is stretched, till it is white coloured.

Sesame is added to warm sugar and spread on large trays. As a child, I would get up early in the morning to go to Chandni Chowk’s Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib with my grandmother. I would wait for the halwa after it had been offered as prasad. I would tell my granny to get at least 5–6 portions. How I relished that taste!

Halwa is often cooked at home. There are many variations—sooji (semolina), whole wheat, gram flour (besan), besides carrot, raw papaya, pumpkin, fig and surprise, surprise, even egg.

The standard recipe for semolina halwa is referred to as ‘1:2:3:4’ as it comprises one unit of oil, two of semolina, three of sugar and
four of water.

In my opinion, carrot halwa is the ultimate Indian dessert, or should I say the king of Indian desserts. There could be nothing more perfect than a bowl of warm carrot halwa on a cold winter day.

The chewy, caramelised carrots, slow-cooked in an open pan for almost an hour are a heavenly treat in themselves.

Gajar Halwa
Ingredients (for 6 servings)
12 tender, juicy red carrots
3 tbsp + 2 tbsp ghee
25 cashew nuts, chopped
3 cups full cream milk
1/3rd cup condensed milk
2 tbsp seedless raisins
5–6 green cardamom pods, crushed
6–7 saffron strands
1/3rd cup sugar
To decorate
3 silver leaves

Method
Scrub the carrots well.
Trim both ends and scrap off the outer skin.
Grate the carrots.
Put 3 tbsp of ghee in a heavy-based wok over moderate heat.
Fry the cashew nuts, till light gold.
Remove and drain on kitchen paper to absorb excess fat.
Add the grated carrots and cook, stirring all the while, for 25 minutes.
Pour in the milk and condensed milk and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally till the mixture thickens and the milk is fully absorbed.
Add the sugar, mix well and stir for another 10 minutes, till the halwa thickens again.
Mix in the remaining ingredients, including the ghee and fried cashew nuts.
Cook for 5-10 minutes, till the halwa leaves the sides of the pan.
Transfer to a serving dish, decorate with silver leaves and serve hot.
Excerpted from On The Dessert Trail: Around the World in Eighty Desserts by Monish Gujral, Penguin Random House India

While working on a cruise liner, Dipak Adhikary of BKC's The Good Wife, had the opportunity to travel to Spain and enjoy its cuisine. "I found that saffron, which has been synonymous with all things Indian, was extensively used in Spanish food," he says.

Years later, when he joined the BKC restaurant, Adhikary decided to experiment with saffron in European dishes. "It offers an intense flavour, colour and taste, and has qualities that blend beautifully with European cuisine," he says, moving on to list ways in which the ingredient can be used.

To prepare the saffron hollandaise sauce, a fragrant mix with a hint of sweetness, you need 125 gm clarified butter, two eggs, 2 ml white wine, 2 gm thyme and 2 gm fennel seeds. "First, add 1 gm saffron to 50ml lukewarm water to get the saffron water ready," he says, instructing us to extract the egg yolk, add the reduction and vigorously whisk the yolk with clarified butter. Once done, we are asked to place the bowl in a saucepan containing simmering water. "Continue to whisk until the mixture thickens. Then, slowly, drizzle the saffron water till you are content with the consistency." This simple recipe, he adds, is the perfect accompaniment to veggies.

Chef Dipak Adhikary makes grilled asparagus with saffron hollandaise sauce. Pic/Tanvi Phondekar

If savoury is more your style, he has a tangy alternative in the form of steamed rawas with saffron fennel sauce. The ingredients include 50 gm fish bones, 20 gm carrot, 10 gm celery and 180 gm rawas. Take a pan with water, place the fish in, add lemon juice, salt and pepper and let it cook. He says, "Strain the stock, add the butter saffron [same technique as the hollandaise], wait for it to thicken and the sauce is ready."

Garima Arora at Masque. Pic/Sneha Kharabe

"I haven't slept in two days," says Garima Arora, armed with a takeaway coffee cup, when we meet her at Mahalaxmi fine-dine, Masque. She has arrived just an hour ago from Bangkok, where she runs her six-month-old restaurant, Gaa. But her caramel-hued eyes light up as soon as we start chatting about her first pop-up in the city, in collaboration with chef Prateek Sadhu.

"We'll do a version of the bhutta, use ingredients like seabuckthorn from Ladakh and chocolates from Pondicherry. Prateek and I share the philosophy of celebrating local produce," says the 30-year-old. Arora seems to have imbibed the philosophy during her three-year stint at René Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen, voted the best in the world. Born in Hyderabad and raised in Mumbai, Arora studied journalism at Jai Hind College before heading to Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. Her illustrious CV includes stints with Gordon Ramsay's Verre in Dubai and at Gaggan Anand's eponymous restaurant in Bangkok before she ventured out. Edited excerpts from the interview:

Keema Pao with homemade butter

How did the shift from journalism to food happen?
My father is an avid cook. He would make dishes like risotto and hummus, which were unheard of in the early '90s. So, I had a keen interest in food but I wanted to plan something in it after winning a Pulitzer [laughs]. Then, on a trip to Singapore, I tried hotpot and decided to start cooking.

What were the learning lessons, working at the world's best kitchens?
At Gordon's, I learnt humility. Noma changed me as a person. I saw the chefs create magic out of limited produce and realised that the food is always bigger than the chef. I also learnt that fermentation can be used as a means of cooking, something I practise till date.

Fish Khanom La

Did these stints prepare you to work with Gaggan Anand?
Oh, Gaggan's was way more chilled out. He is also a confident chef; his Indian food is spot on. I think a lot, and believe that every step in the cooking process needs to have a reason. Gaggan is more carefree. From him, I learnt that cooking with a free hand isn't a bad thing.

Then, was it a challenge to carve your own niche with Gaa?
Yes, it still is. Many guests compare us with Noma but what I serve is my personal interpretation. Our idea is to introduce diners to flavours they've never tried before. For instance, at the border of Laos and Thailand, I came across eggfruit for the first time, and I was filled with childlike happiness. It tastes like avocado, with the texture resembling an egg yolk. At our restaurant, we use it on flatbread and as a soft serve. We also do a savoury version of Khanom La, a southern Thai dessert. The way it's made is a dying technique.

Crayfish, Eggfruit and Pomelo

Have you introduced any recipes from back home at your restaurant?
Homemade white butter that my grandmother would make. She would let the cream ferment naturally and then churn it. Guests wonder if it's cheese.

What's your take on Mumbai's culinary scene?
Chefs need to add a lot more thought to the food they are serving. For instance, many restaurants try to modernise Indian food; I wouldn't dare do that. Given the historical references, we should look at Indian food more intelligently.

Telugu actress Samantha Akkineni turned a year older on April 28, 2020, and she was seen celebrating her special day with near and dear ones. Samantha's husband Naga Chaitanya hosted a sweet little party for the birthday girl at their home.

Chaitanya also baked a cake for his wife, and the actress shared a time-lapse video on social media. She wrote, "baking my birthday cake." Take a look at the series of photos and video shared by the birthday girl on Instagram.

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

Family ❤ï¸Â .... (no points for guessing what I am praying for )

A post shared by Samantha Akkineni (@samantharuthprabhuoffl) onApr 27, 2020 at 12:29pm PDT

For the uninitiated, the 33-year-old actress has a solid fan-following not only in India but globally too and has given us two very memorable films- 24 and Eega, both brimming with imaginative ideas and smashing entertainment. Samantha has come a long way and carved her own niche in Indian Cinema. Her work in the Telugu and Tamil industry continues to resonate with audiences and critics alike.

Speaking of her professional journey, some of her most remembered works as an artist are 24, Oh Baby, U-Turn, Super Deluxe, and Rangasthalam.

On the other hand, talking about her personal life, Samantha Ruth Prabhu and Naga Chaitanya tied the knot in both grand South Indian and Christian ceremony in October 2017.

Catch up on all the latest entertainment news and gossip here. Also, download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps.

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Katrina Kaif's inner chef simply won't give up. A while back, she whipped up something in the kitchen that she was not sure what excatly it was she made. On Tuesday, she has done it again! In a new video she shared on Instagram, Katrina chops away what could either be cheese or cabbage. Later, when she is asked what is it that she is cooking, she admits not being too sure.

 

 

 

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Tuesday = ðŸ¥Â˜+👩🏽‍💻@🏠

A post shared by Katrina Kaif (@katrinakaif) onApr 28, 2020 at 3:42am PDT

Commenting on the post, fashion designer Anaita Shroff Adajania asked: "What's cookin?". Katrina replied: "That I'm not too sure of."

This sent fans on a wild guessing spree. "Gobhi," guessed one user, while another imagined mashed potatoes. Still another suggested the actress should finish first and then think of a name for her dish.

Earlier this month, Katrina had shared a video where she is seen cooking something along with sister Isabelle. Although, the item on the frying pan looked like a pancake, Katrina claimed she was "not sure" what was being prepared!

 

 

 

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We’re not sure what it is either .... we ll let u know when we do ðŸ¤Â”🍴🥣 #happyworldsiblingday @isakaif

A post shared by Katrina Kaif (@katrinakaif) onApr 10, 2020 at 5:55am PDT

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Timut
At: The Clearing House, Ballard Estate

Pastry chef Husna Jumani sources timut from the Northeast. Pic/Bipin Kokate

It's not often that you come across a dessert with pepper. It's for this reason that Husna Jumani, head pastry chef at The Clearing House, decided to experiment with the timut, the popular Nepalese pepper, in their Greek yoghurt pannacota. "I had already tried using other varieties of pepper, so I thought timut would be a great addition because the flavour is pronounced. It is spicy, with hints of grapefruit," says Jumani, who sources it from the Northeast.

However, it's an ingredient that can work either way, she warns. "If used with the right combinations, it can elevate the dish like no other. Else, it will overpower the other ingredients." Apart from being a tricky ingredient, it's also an acquired flavour. "When people eat it, they might not recognise it or might not realise it's a spice. It has a spicy yet fruity undertone."

Green peppercorn and krachai
At: Izaya, Nariman Point

When restaurateur Farrokh Khambata launched Izaya last November, it wasn't just a new fine-dining address he was looking to introduce. What he also wanted to do was offer the diner an innovative range of spices. "It gets boring to cook with basil and bird eye chilies, when you are talking Thai food. I wanted to give things an overhaul," he says. He sought recourse in the aromatic, fresh green peppercorn, plucked from the Piper Nigrum vine, and the krachai or Chinese ginger, both found in Southeast Asia.

The green peppercorn is added at the end

At the restaurant, krachai finds its way into a sauce that accompanies the Australian barramundi or sea bass fillet, and the green peppercorn makes an appearance in the yakitori style-grilled chicken. Both are crushed on stone and added to the dish at the end.

Thai ginger. Pic/Bipin Kokate

"Certain spices like kadi patta require oil to bring out their essence, but not these," Khambatta adds. What gives these flavouring agents an edge is their freshness. "When it's in season, we use it fresh, which means that they have a short shelf life. But our dishes won't be the same without them."

Ajamoda
At: Olive Bar and Kitchen, Bandra

The lifecycle of the ajmoda plantsown at the restaurant. Pics/Ashish Raje

A couple of months ago, one of the chefs at Olive Bar and Kitchen, stumbled upon ajamoda or wild celery seeds on a trip to Kolkata. Curious, he decided to plant it and see what comes of it.

"It's only been four weeks since we decided to use it as a brine for the tuna jerky, because of its intense flavour," says head chef Rishim Sachdeva. A well-known Ayurvedic medicinal herb, the ajamoda belongs to the ajwain family and is native to West Bengal. The restaurant sources it from Vrindavan Farms in Palghar.

"We braise it and add it when the brine goes from warm to cold," he says. Interestingly, the guests have taken note. "Those who have tasted the dish have made it a point to tell us that there's something unique about the taste."

Pasilla Oaxaca
At: Xico, Kamala Mills

Chef Jason Hudanish with a range of spices at Xico. Pic/Bipin Kokate

Chef Jason Hudanish wanted to introduce the pasilla Oaxaca at Lower Parel's Xico for more reasons than one. "It's a dark red chill — smokey and fruity with a heat level that is sharp but not overwhelming. Also, it can be used in just about anything — soup, stew, rice or salad," he says. What works against it though, is that it's fairly expensive and not readily available unlike the more common pasilla pepper, a dried chili used in traditional Mexican mole sauces.

The pasilla Oaxaca is produced only in the hilly Oaxaca region of southern Mexico. Here, it is used to make the hearty tortilla soup and borracho salsa, their table side sauce. Apart from pasilla Oaxaca, you'll also find that the achiote, a red paste made from grinding Annatto seeds with oregano, cumin, cloves, allspice berries, black pepper and salt. "It's powerful and pungent. We use it in the slow roasted pork, but warn people before serving it," he says.

Peela Masala
At: All Elements, Khar

The peela masala has been concocted using 12 different spices. Pic/Bipin Kokate

All Elements might be a young, two-month old café, but the cooking techniques it employs are age old. In fact, the peela masala used to spice up the seafood and vegetarian appetisers, is a legacy dating back three generations.

"My grandmother, Harbans Bedi, created this spice mix using 12 ingredients that she would source from local shops in Mazgaon. For me, she's the real mistress of spices," laughs proprietor Gudiya Chadha. The ingredients include star anise, coriander seeds and clove, among others. Understandably, the flavour is strong and hits you the moment you open the lid of the container. "A pinch is all you need. Else, it will overpower the dish."

Gudiya Chadha

Sassafras powder
At: Toast and Tonic, BKC

Pic/Ashish Raje

At Toast and Tonic, most marinades and mixes are prepared in house, using indigenous ingredients. The sassafras powder, therefore, is an exception. Also called a Gumbo filé powder, it comes from a sturdy tree in Louisiana.

At the restaurant, you'll find the powder stored in glass jars. "It is popular for creole and cajun cooking. We use it for both, flavour and texture in traditional gumbo, because it not only thickens the broth, but also lends it an earthy flavour," says sous chef Chirag Makwana. Filé powder is generally added at the end of cooking, or stirred into hot gumbo right before serving. They also sprinkle a pinch on their prawn flatbread for flavour.

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