Beautifully embroidered designs on plain voile fabric in the nyonya style

Kebaya - Colourful flora and fauna on plain voile in the traditional Nyonya style.

Kebaya - A selection of unique pieces in voile, silk, chiffon and georgette.

Authentic Penang Nyonya Kebayas made by the experts in the traditional style.

A work of art, a thing of beauty and a joy to own.Orders in a different size will take 3 to 4 weeks.

Prices range from RM150 to RM1500
We Accept International Orders

Nyonya Kebayas are a hot commodity among fashion designers but the sense of tradition is either missing in many of the new fusion designs or lost in the hefty price tags.

Not wanting to see glitter and glamour get in the way of what a truly traditional Nyonya Kebaya is, Penang Nyonya Lily Yew Chooi Lian took up the hobby of sewing the transparent garments three years ago.

Spending about five hours to make one kebaya, Yew has made numerous garments for friends and family and has had several of her creations flying off to distant places like San Francisco and Saigon.

“What used to be worn for going out of the house is now reserved for festive and formal occasions and it is a pity because the Kebaya is so elegant and beautiful,” said Yew.

“The Kebaya is part of my cultural heritage and it looks good for all occasions, which is why I took up sewing the blouses three years ago,” she added.

While the more than RM1,000 price tag on most modern Kebayas prevent many from owning one, Yew does what she can to spread her love for the traditional wear by making it affordable for friends and family.

Her quest for affordable material was a long one because the embroidered sleeves and hems are difficult to do.

“The motifs are done by machine and are usually floral but with the imagination of some embroiderers, you can find cute animals, insects, geishas in kimonos, little China dolls, dragons and phoenix, to name a few,” said Yew.

Luckily, Yew was able to find a cheaper alternative with a shop that orders the material from Indonesia, but stocks can be sporadic.

“I like my Kebayas elegant and feminine so I sew them as close to the traditional style as possible with princess cut (pesak) and all French seams.”

This style leaves no margin for mistakes and makes it very hard to sew, which is why Yew only does them in standard sizes of small, medium and large.

Yew is open to orders from people but stressed that she is only sewing the Kebayas in her spare time as she is a busy grandmother. Yew has a variety of fabrics that customers can use to make the transparent blouse.

“I want to share my love for the Kebaya and make it affordable,” said Yew.

“I try to sew a whole range of colours to suit everyone and I also have pieces of embroidered materials in different shades for clients to choose from, but I do not make to measure.”

The Kebaya began as a long sleeved blouse with lace appliquéd around the edges. It is the traditional costume of Straits Chinese ladies and other Peranakan women from Indonesia and Thailand.

It is worn with a Javanese batik sarong and to be properly dressed, a Nyonya will have her hair in a chignon (sanggul) with flowers and gold pins.

The lapel of the Nyonya Kebaya is held together with a set of three brooches (kerosang) while the sarong is folded and secured with a gold or silver chain-link belt.

For the feet, beaded slippers are a must. In Penang Hokkien, the Kebaya is called Pua T’ng Teh, meaning midway between long and short.

For the modern look, the Kebaya can be worn with pants, over a simple sleeveless or spaghetti-strapped dress or even used over a tank top as a jacket.

Materials used to make the Kebaya include coarse voile (kasar robia), non-iron georgette and shantung for its lovely sheen.

Nyonya Kebaya has to be hand washed, using a little starch for the voile ones so they can last a long time. Antique pieces have lasted through the years because of the use of starch.

The Nyonya Kebaya is a beautiful, translucent, figure-hugging embroidered blouse worn with a batik sarong by Peranakan ladies.

It is this and much more. A nyonya kebaya is a work of art, a labour of love, a heritage, a traditional costume that is timeless. An attire for all occasions, it is elegant, feminine, alluring, sensual, glamorous and fashionable for all ages.

However, an authentic nyonya kebaya tends to come with a price tag that is not within the budget of many people. My passion for it has evolved into a home-based business of making affordable nyonya kebayas. Except for the Exclusive Collection, I tailor every piece. I sew them as close as possible to the traditional style using princess cut (pesak) and French seams.

Materials are of select Indonesian embroidered fabric with intricate lace-work edging in floral, fauna and geometric patterns for the hems, sleeves and lapels. I do not make to measure but take orders in standard sizes of small, medium and large, which would fit most people.

You are invited to view the Kebaya Collection available now on-line. Select your favourite piece today and own a fabulous kebaya!

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If you are a Capetonian down to your roots, this is a production to see.

[This Day] In line with the vision of the Governor of Bayelsa State, Senator Douye Diri to make Bayelsa a model for basic education reform and transformation, the Ministry of Education and Bayelsa State Universal Basic Education Board (Bayelsa SUBEB) have launched BayelsaPRIME@Home, an initiative designed to keep primary school children learning during the flood break.

[This Day] The ongoing Nigeria Premier Professional League (NPFL) has continued to throw up interesting results following away wins recorded by two struggling teams, Ikorodu City and Bayelsa United against their respective opponents.

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In this introduction to the final part of Paradise and Utopia, Fr. John reads the prologue to his recently released book, The Age of Nihilism: Christendom from the Great War to the Culture Wars. The episode introduces the nihilistic philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche and the role compositions by Richard Wagner played in his formation. Included are musical excerpts of the latter's famous "Wedding March" and "Ride of the Valkyries."

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Malgré un télescopage plus que dommageable avec l’affaire Ferrand – il aurait déjà dû démissionner – François Bayrou a annoncé un train de mesures visant à moraliser visant à encadrer les élus. Et bien celles-ci vont dans le bon sens. Bien sûr, on pourra...

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The Pirate Bay made its debut as a TV series on the Swedish streaming platform SVT Play earlier today. International viewers are left waiting until other services pick it up. In the meantime, some may be tempted to explore unofficial channels for pirated copies of the show. But finding a pirated copy is proving surprisingly difficult.

From: TF, for the latest news on copyright battles, piracy and more.

The Pirate Bay TV series is the entertainment industry's depiction of the torrent site's turbulent history. The creators don't take sides but mostly focus on the legal battle that only represents part of the story. According to Pirate Bay co-founder Peter Sunde and Piratbyrån's Rasmus Fleischer, living though it all was a completely different experience.

From: TF, for the latest news on copyright battles, piracy and more.

Privacy: Our parents were taking liberties for granted in their analog world, liberties that are not passed down to our children in the transition to digital — such as the simple right to send an anonymous letter.

Sometimes when speaking, I ask the audience how many would be okay with sites like The Pirate Bay, even if it means that artists are losing money from their operation. (Do note that this assertion is disputed: I’m asking the question on the basis of what-if the assertion is true.) Some people raise their hands, the proportion varying with audience and venue.

The copyright industry asserts that the offline laws don’t apply on the Internet when they want to sue and prosecute people sharing knowledge and culture. They’re right, but not in the way they think. They’re right that copyright law does apply online as well. But privacy laws don’t, and they should.

In the offline world, an analog letter was given a certain level of protection. This was not intended to cover just the physical letter as such, but correspondence in general; it was just that the letter was the only form of such correspondence when these liberties were drafted.

First, the letter was anonymous. It was your prerogative entirely whether you identified yourself as sender of the letter on the outside of the envelope, on the inside of the letter (so not even the postal service knew who sent it, only the recipient), or not at all.

Further, the letter was untracked in transit. The only governments tracking people’s correspondence were those we looked down on with enormous contempt.

Third, the letter was secret. The envelope would never we broken in transit.

Fourth, the carrier was never responsible for the contents, of nothing else for the simple reason they were not allowed to examine the content in the first place. But even if they could, like with a envelopeless postcard, they were never liable for executing their courier duties — this principle, the courier immunity or messenger immunity, is a principle that dates as far back as the Roman Empire.

These principles, the liberties of correspondence, should apply to offline correspondence (the letter) just as it should to online correspondence. But it doesn’t. You don’t have the right to send anything you like to anybody you like online, because it might be a copyright infringement — even though our parents had exactly this right in their offline world.

So the copyright industry is right – sending a copied drawing in a letter is a copyright infringement, and sending a copied piece of music over the net is the same kind of copyright infringement. But offline, there are checks and balances to these laws – even though it’s a copyright infringement, nobody is allowed to open the letter in transit just to see if it violates the law, because the secrecy of private correspondence is considered more important than discovering copyright infringements. This is key. This set of checks and balances has not been carried over into the digital environment.

The only time a letter is opened and prevented is when somebody is under individual and prior suspicion of a serious crime. The words “individual” and “prior” are important here — opening letters just to see if they contain a non-serious crime in progress, like copyright infringement, is simply not permitted in the slightest.

There is no reason for the offline liberties of our parents to not be carried over into the same online liberties for our children, regardless of whether that means somebody doesn’t know how to run a business anymore.

After highlighting these points, I repeat the question whether the audience would be okay with sites like The Pirate Bay, even if it means an artist is losing income. And after making these points, basically everybody raises their hand to say they would be fine with it; they would be fine with our children having the same liberty as our parents, and the checks and balances of the offline world to also apply online.

Next in the series, we’re going to look at a related topic – public anonymous announcements and the important role the city square soapbox filled in shaping liberty.

Privacy remains your own responsibility.

UCLA will play Baylor and Texas will face Maryland in a women's basketball doubleheader in the inaugural Coretta Scott King Classic in January.

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The post Bayes in the Age of Intelligent Machines was curated by information for practice.

Auer Hall, Simon Music Center
Thursday, December 5, 2024, 8 – 10pm

Repertoire
Mason Bates: The Rise of Exotic Computing (2013)
Corey Chang: What’s Next? (2024, premiere)*
Sean Shepherd: Simple Machines (2024)

*New Music Ensemble Commission

More info: events.iu.edu…

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Small-angle scattering (SAS) is a key experimental technique for analyzing nanoscale structures in various materials. In SAS data analysis, selecting an appropriate mathematical model for the scattering intensity is critical, as it generates a hypothesis of the structure of the experimental sample. Traditional model selection methods either rely on qualitative approaches or are prone to overfitting. This paper introduces an analytical method that applies Bayesian model selection to SAS measurement data, enabling a quantitative evaluation of the validity of mathematical models. The performance of the method is assessed through numerical experiments using artificial data for multicomponent spherical materials, demonstrating that this proposed analysis approach yields highly accurate and interpretable results. The ability of the method to analyze a range of mixing ratios and particle size ratios for mixed components is also discussed, along with its precision in model evaluation by the degree of fitting. The proposed method effectively facilitates quantitative analysis of nanoscale sample structures in SAS, which has traditionally been challenging, and is expected to contribute significantly to advancements in a wide range of fields.

Autonomous methods to align beamlines can decrease the amount of time spent on diagnostics, and also uncover better global optima leading to better beam quality. The alignment of these beamlines is a high-dimensional expensive-to-sample optimization problem involving the simultaneous treatment of many optical elements with correlated and nonlinear dynamics. Bayesian optimization is a strategy of efficient global optimization that has proved successful in similar regimes in a wide variety of beamline alignment applications, though it has typically been implemented for particular beamlines and optimization tasks. In this paper, we present a basic formulation of Bayesian inference and Gaussian process models as they relate to multi-objective Bayesian optimization, as well as the practical challenges presented by beamline alignment. We show that the same general implementation of Bayesian optimization with special consideration for beamline alignment can quickly learn the dynamics of particular beamlines in an online fashion through hyperparameter fitting with no prior information. We present the implementation of a concise software framework for beamline alignment and test it on four different optimization problems for experiments on X-ray beamlines at the National Synchrotron Light Source II and the Advanced Light Source, and an electron beam at the Accelerator Test Facility, along with benchmarking on a simulated digital twin. We discuss new applications of the framework, and the potential for a unified approach to beamline alignment at synchrotron facilities.

Chesapeake Bay Program — Press Release — October 31, 2024

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Unauthorized smoking is a major challenge for any hotel with the actual costs of smoking averaging four to five times the cleaning fee.