Chef Cham Hun Chakap plates a portion of chilli chicken. Chilli chicken is one of the spicier dishes that can be traced back to Tangra. But the food of the Kolkata locality is often a lot sweeter than other Indo-Chinese dishes because that’s how the Bengalis prefered it. This can be evidenced in something like honey chilli potato.

Chef Cham Hun Chakap moves around the kitchen with the assurance of a well-set batsman completing a comfortable single down to deep midwicket. He is running the show behind the scenes at a restaurant in an upscale Powai hotel, which is hosting an event called Tangra Festival. The dish that the chef is whipping up for us is chilli chicken, possibly the most ubiquitous item in the culinary spectrum of Indo-Chinese dishes. And he tells us that it was invented in Tangra, the new Chinatown in Kolkata, considered by many to be the Mecca of this particular cuisine.

Tangra does indeed occupy a unique spot in the country’s food-scape. It all goes back to about 100 years ago, when the British — along with Kolkata’s older Chinese community in Tirreti Bazaar — established the area, setting up leather factories there to manufacture boots and other goods for soldiers at the battlefront during World War I. Business picked up further during World War II. But then, the British packed their bags in 1947. So, the Chinese community took over the tanning operations. Their life ambled comfortably along, only to be turned upside down by the Indo-China war of 1962, when many indigenous Chinese people immigrated to safer havens like Canada, Australia and Taiwan. And suddenly, the community in Kolkata found its numbers to have considerably dwindled.

Food to the rescue
What’s worse is that the ones who were left behind, and who had picked up the mantle of the leather business from their predecessors, found themselves on the wrong side of the law after the state government deemed the tanning industry to be an environmental hazard in the mid-’90s. A large number of factories thus faced closure, with some being shifted to the nearby neighbourhood of Bantala. Many of the owners faced overnight financial ruin. So, to get out of the soup they found themselves in, they turned their attention to another business that had been gaining momentum in the area over the ’70s and ’80s — restaurants serving “Chinese” dishes.

“Initially, these restaurants were serving the authentic cuisine of the Chinese mainland. But that did not suit the palate of Kolkata’s Bengalis, who found it to be too bland. So the restaurants were running in losses in the beginning, till their owners decided to alter the recipes, adding Indian herbs and flavours,” chef Cham says, adding that this formed the genesis of what we call Chindian cuisine.

Illustration/Ravi Jadhav

These dishes, of course, bore as much resemblance to true-blue Chinese food as idli-sambar does to tandoori chicken. Instead of being stir-fried, for instance, most of the preparations were gravy-based. The spice quotient was also so much higher than a Shanghai local would put his chopsticks down to fan his mouth after one bite. Plus, while something like a Peking duck is roasted over a length of time, Tangra food was geared to suit the purposes of the quick-service restaurants there. This automatically also meant that the meat — including the fish items — was almost invariably diced into pieces, instead of being served whole, like some of the dishes in mainland China.

Pan-Indian acceptance
Be that as it may, the cuisine gradually started spreading to other parts of the country. Nelson Wang, a Tangra local who opened SoBo’s China Garden in 1984, is widely credited with having invented chicken Manchurian, a dish which if you say is Chinese, you might also say that the giant panda is India’s national animal. Punjabis also caught on to the trend, developing a brand of Sino-Ludhianvi dishes. And with time, Indo-Chinese food became a mainstay of restaurants in various cities, including Mumbai, where lunch home menus reserve equal space for “Chinese” dishes as they do for stuff like chana masala and aloo matar.

The credit for this goes to the original restaurateurs of Tangra who Indianised their indigenous dishes. But things are no longer hunky-dory in the Kolkata neighbourhood, says Dominic Lee, a fourth-generation Tangra local. “Many of the smaller restaurants are finding it difficult to sustain themselves, with only the bigger eateries, which have space for parking, constantly managing to upgrade themselves because they have the requisite capital,” he tells us, adding that the recent controversy around dubious meat being supposedly sold in the city’s restaurants has led to a further dip in fortunes.

Nonetheless, he continues, the legacy of the cuisine has left a permanent imprint on the history of India’s food. Take chilli chicken, something so popular that it’s travelled all the way from the humble Kolkata locality to the swish Powai hotel where chef Cham is making us his version of it. But when he is done in a matter of mere minutes, he recognises the look of doubt on our face after we have had a taste. “I have to make a blander variety because most of our customers are from the West, and they wouldn’t be able to handle something too spicy,” he explains, revealing how Indo-Chinese cuisine of the Tangra variety is a preserve of only our own countrymen.

Looking for it anywhere else in the world would be like looking for a needle in a haystack, for all practical purposes.

Awesome sauce
A huge contribution that Tangra has had is popularising the concept of chilli sauce. “You will find it in all the kathi roll shops dotted around Kolkata. But before we added it to our food to suit Indian taste buds, people had no clue about it,” says Lee.
Till May 27, 7 pm
To 11.30 pm
AT Emperor's Court, Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel, near Chinmayanand Ashram, Powai.
Call 8291165421

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Our cab pulls up outside Bayroute in Cuffe Parade and through the heavy door, we are transported into a tavern with large cloth lamps that resemble hot air balloons, glass-blown light fixtures, beige sandstone walls and mirrors that make us stop and stare. Natural light floods the space through the windows adorned with heavy curtain drapes. We point our cell phone camera in every direction wondering how similar it is to a set from Aladdin.

The restaurant, which serves Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare from Egypt, Turkey, Lebanon and Greece, is dished out by chef Ajay Thakur. Before we order drinks, we call for hummus. A city food consultant we have with us for company suggests that the iconic dish is the true test of good Middle Eastern fare. So, we pick the baharatli hummus (Rs 475).

Turkish Express

The chick pea mash comes with a shot ofspicy Tunisian chilli pepper that is flaming orange in colour. The pine nuts and olive oil drizzle, too, is a well-rounded upliftment. Next, we try the quwarmah Kuwaiti (Rs 595), a Turkish pide or flatbread folded like a long boat that comes with well-marinated ingredients and is donned with caramel golden fried onions, fresh pomegranate rubies and herbs. This we pair with drink like an Egyptian (Rs 375) and Turkish express (Rs 450). The first beverage has the sweetness of ganna and a punch of dark rum along with the tangy-sweet twist of lime juice and honey. The latter, which is supposed to have a whiskey base, tastes like coffee and cream instead. So, we send it back and are told that they forgot the booze. When we try it again it's a truly indulgent drink spiked with a well-smoked whiskey.

The mains had its own share of hits and misses. We tried Koshari (Rs 645), the national dish of Egypt made with pasta, lentils and rice, in Dubai at a street festival a few years ago. That version was local with the vendor having picked up the recipe from his mother. The one at our table tastes of tomato gravy and pasta. It's a let down.

Arni arakil 

Arni arnaki (Rs 1,395), our non-veg pick, is a portion of za'atar-butter-braised lamb shanks served with roasted veggies, caramelised onion and a pine nut pilaf. Here, the winner is the pomegranate grape jus: a thick, molasses-like juice that perfectly balances the fall-of-the-bone meat.

For dessert, we pick the mint chocolate and Greek yogurt popsicles (Rs 525). As we bite and lick the sweet treat, we're convinced the restaurant, which also has an outlet in Powai, is a go-to spot for the right dose of
Middle Eastern.

TIME 12 pm to 1.30 am
AT Bayroute, Minoo Manor Building, 7, Captain Prakash Pethe Marg, Badhwar Park, Cuffe Parade.
CALL 8291156403

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Bayroute didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

It's a busy morning inside the sprawling open kitchen at Chembur's Pot Pourri with blogger-author Saee Koranne-Khandekar helming the activity with help from executive chef Vinod Garde. In the last 10 days she has been pretty much relegated to this section of the 175-seater space. The only time we see her stepping out is to answer a phone call or greet a guest. The reason is a new culinary experiment that will see the restaurant, known for dabbling in global cuisine, present a new face of Maharashtrian food. One that you might not identify by its appearance — we did not — but certainly by taste.

Chicken Bhujing is a street dish available inVirar. Bhujing, derived from the Marathi word, bhujne, is a process of roasting chicken with potatoes on charcoal and then mixing it with nylon poha and masalas

Creating a new avatar
Starting today, Pot Pourri will roll out a new menu curated by Khandekar that will be available only till October 24. The objective is to showcase how traditional Maharashtrian recipes can be tweaked and made palatable to an evolving audience, who might otherwise gawk at the idea of eating faraali misal or varan phala at a gourmet restaurant. Having said that, Khandekar is clear that food won't carry any 'deconstructivist' baggage. Portion sizes are hearty, and there are no foam, vapours and gasses to accompany it.

Pathare Prabhu pot pie with tomato saar

"I had to mainly work on the way I approached certain traditional dishes," says Khandekar, who in 2016, authored Crumbs! Bread Stories and Recipes for the Indian Kitchen, that offered more than 40 recipes of Indian and international breads. She adds, "For instance, if I said thalipeeth with koshimbir, people who are not familiar with the cuisine, might say, 'Oh, this is just too experimental for me'. They might find it intimidating and rustic, and not want to eat it at all." In order to give the spiced Maharashtrian pancake a makeover, Khandekar has created thalipeeth tostadas, topped with a creamy guava-based yoghurt salad. The dish, prepared using bhajanee (flour made from roasted grains, legumes and spices), has been fashioned to look like the Mexican tortilla with guacamole. If you have tasted the Maharashtrian snack, a powerhouse of nutrition, the taste will hit home. It's the yoghurt that helps balance the spiciness of the pancake, making it a sumptuous bar snack.

Faraali misal is eaten while fasting. Here's it's served with a peanut dip

Khandekar believes that although, thalipeeth has for centuries been a 'multigrain' offering, the idea of bringing into the mainstream never took off due to its seemingly regional strappings. "Somewhere, in the name of 'evolution', we have drifted away from what's intrinsic to the culture. Our cuisine which was earlier very millet and rice-heavy has now moved to being wheat heavy. Seasonal items like gourds barely make an appearance," she adds.

Modak icecrean with crispy vermicelli; Baked coconut fudge karanji with vanilla icecream

Getting global recognition
For any regional cuisine to reach the pedestal of a fine dine, it needs to go through a rite of passage, believes Rajendra Agnihotri, executive chef, at White Charcoal Fine Dine, Empressa Hotel, Andheri. "In terms of food, the key lies in the attention to detail when it comes to ingredients and methods of preparation. The ingredients need to be sourced from where it originates and the chefs need to be local who have specialised in the cuisine; it has to be authentic to the T. If you're making the classic kombdi rassa, you would need gavthi chicken. The one purchased from a supermarket won't have the same taste," he says. When it comes to Maharashtrian cuisine, it's the diversity that makes it complex. In fact, the vegetable Kolhapuri that you might have seen on almost every Indian restaurant's menu doesn't exist in the region, adds Khandekar.

Saee Koranne-Khandekar with chef Vinod Garde. Pics/Sayyed Sameer Abedi

"There is nothing called as Veg Kolhapuri. If you go to Kolhapur, there are so many different masalas. There's no one-size-fits all masala." Akshay Deshpande, Sous Chef (Indian specialty), Conrad Pune, who grew up eating Maharashtrian food at home, admits that he's seen little of the food on the fine dine space. "It has been over eight years that I have taken up regional cooking professionally, but I admit that the cuisine in its entirety is an extremely unexplored cuisine. I think it's because it's extremely rustic and there's no standardisation so to speak," he says.

The cuisine from Vidharbha, the north-eastern region of Maharashtra, known for its extreme climates, is famous for its extremely spicy flavours, while Konkan is more mellow given all the coconut and kokum that goes into it. According to Khanderkar, who has extensively researched traditional Maharastrian cuisine, what has made winners out of misal pav and puranpoli, are the people who migrated from Western Maharashtra, introducing it to Mumbai through khanavals. "They made a business out of it and that's why it is what it is," she says. But those dishes that did not transition to the mainland, are yet to enjoy their moment in the sun.

Back to basics
The 'unsophisticated' appearance makes it a tricky business. She, for one, had to battle one critic in her own home. "My husband was of the opinion that Maharashtrian food is not visually appetising," she says. But chefs are now channelling their energies into presentation. The modernist element is consistent throughout Khandekar's menu. Take the Pathare Prabhu Pot Pie with tomato saar, served in a shot glass. The latter is a spicy tomato soup made with curry leaves and chillies. It's eaten with rice in parts of Maharashtra and Karnataka. Here, the dish is a take on the shepherd pie. The taste is unmistakably Pathare Prabhu, courtesy the signature fragrant garam masala which gets its edge from the fennel seeds that are ground along with Bengal gram, fenugreek, whole wheat and black peppercorn. All ingredients, we are told, have been sourced locally.

Agnihotri feels the local and regional cuisines are slowly making their way into the mainstream. And, it's a lot to do with the growing realisation of the food miles concept, which is a way of expressing just how far the food we eat travels from the farm where it is first produced, before it ends up on our tables. Although the expression was first coined back in the 1990s, it has entered public consciousness given the awareness of carbon footprint and environmental degradation. "You want to tap into indigenous resources. It's to do with chefs who are going back to roots. There's a return to basics," he says.

The winners

• Chicken Bhujing, a signature street dish popular in the confines of Virar and Vasai. Those living outside the parameters may have no clue. The chicken is roasted along with potatoes and then fried and steamed with onion. It's then mixed with nylon poha and a special masala mix
• Orange kharvas with dink crumb and kaakvi is a colostrum pudding served with fried edible gum, fresh orange and sugarcane molasses
• Varan Phala Ravioli is their take on the Maharashtrian pasta. It is made with whole wheat and stuffed with coriander and goda masala in a tuar dal sauce

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Baah Gajor Gahori

Growing up in a conservative home in Imphal, Keisham Kunjakishor Singh, who goes by the names Keisham or Bung, wasn't allowed to cook chicken and pork in his kitchen. "My parents never stopped us from eating it but we couldn't cook meat inside our home. So, I would bring the stove to our courtyard, and smoke pork outside. I also remember learning how to smoke fish at the age of 10. That is considered vegetarian in most Manipuri homes," says the 35-year-old Manipuri fashion designer based in Mumbai, who moonlights as a home chef. This Sunday, he will offer a taste of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare from the northeastern state, at the pop-up titled Manipuri Chakhum, presented by Authenticook.

Singju

Take a veggie walk
The meal features 10 dishes, including Singju, a popular street snack served at female-run stalls known as potphams. It's a salad made using cabbage, lotus root and fenugreek leaves, laced with several herbs. For the mains, you can seek comfort in Mangal Ooti, a dal featuring whole yellow peas cooked with bamboo shoot, brought in from his native town. "I travel to Imphal every month and return with seasonal herbs, black rice, bhut jolokia and spices like bay leaves, Chinese chives and ginger. We grow most of them in our backyard," says Keisham.

Chakhao Kheer

He'll use the pungent chive leaves in Maroi Bori Thongba, a curry with black gram and lentil dumplings, while the other spices will be used in Kangsoi, a popular Manipuri version of a stew made with fresh, seasonal vegetables like tomatoes, cabbage and potatoes. "I grew up on this stew, and sticky rice. I'll use my mother's recipe to make it," he adds.

The food will be served with sticky rice

Also on the vegetarian menu is Chamfoot, a simple, steamed vegetable salad. Keisham has prepared accompaniments like Soibum Iromba (fermented bamboo shoot chutney) and Kanglayen Iromba (dry mushroom chutney).

Know the difference
The non-vegetarian menu stars Baah Gajor Gahori Tender, where chunks of pork are cooked with bamboo shoot and bhut jolokia chilli. "The Manipuri style of cooking pork is vastly different from Naga pork, which usually is just boiled or steamed. We use several spices to cook the meats. I make my own spice mix with coriander, cumin, fenugreek seeds, and asafoetida."

KK Singh aka Keisham

Similarly, Yen Thongba, or chicken curry, is prepared by shallow frying the meat first and then boiling it in water to thicken it as gravy. The pop-up also features Nga Ataoba Thongba, comprising Rohu fish that is fried and curried in tomato. Keisham will also offer sticky rice that has been wrapped and cooked in lotus leaf. "It's the most traditional way of cooking it. The leaf infuses an aroma into the rice. For dessert, there's Chakhao Kheer cooked with black rice. It's something my father would cook for us in the afternoons when we were kids," reminisces Keisham.

On: August 27, 1 pm
At: Authenticook Underground Studio, Chembur
Log on to: authenticook.in
Cost: `1,050 (vegetarian); `1,250 (non-vegetarian)

Barbecue Chicken Wings; Kheema Mutter Pav; Veggie Manchurian Style and Chilli Chicken RiceBarbecue Chicken Wings; Kheema Mutter Pav; Veggie Manchurian Style and Chilli Chicken Rice

A meal in a box may sound convenient, but not terribly appetising. Those were the thoughts running through our minds as we decided to check out The Bowl Box, a recently opened takeaway in Mahim. And we're glad we were proved wrong!

The Bowl Box dishes out an extensive menu with Asian, Indian, Italian and even Mediterranean meal boxes. In addition, they have options for 8-inch pizzas, rolls, appetisers, the kids' menu, stuffed pav, salad bowls, tandoori cuisine, and a separate one-bowl meal section too.

The meals arrived in sturdy boxes

We placed the order and were promised delivery in 45 minutes. But it took an hour. In their defence, we had ordered a total of seven items. Strangely, we couldn't try out dishes from the kids' menu, as we were informed that those dishes need a day's notice to be made.

Asian Meal Box

The food came packaged in sleek black containers with see-through lids. A label printed with The Bowl Box's name and logo also bore the name of the dish, and had tick boxes to help you instantly tell the difference between vegetarian and non-vegetarian items.

We started with one of the quirkier offerings: the 8-inch Mumbai Pav Bhaji Pizza (Rs 225 not inclusive of taxes). Fusion can go terribly wrong ; an Indian street food stall and a ristorante didn't seem to go well together in our heads.

But the pav bhaji came with a chatpata flavour, while the cheese spread out lavishly on top tickled the palate. Surprisingly, the spicy and cheesy flavours complemented each other perfectly.

Next came an Asian meal box - Basil and Burnt Garlic Rice, with Thai Curry and Chicken Fry (Rs 300). The Thai curry didn't taste very Thai, reminding us a bit instead of the Chinese Schezwan sauce. The Chicken Fry was crunchy and flavoured with spices. The meal also came with a salad - strips of carrots and cucumber - and a generous chunk of brownie with a drizzle of chocolate sauce. The brownie was rich and moist, and the perfect way to end the meal (box).

Then came the Italiano meal box - veggies in a creamy basil sauce, with garlic bread and tossed potatoes (Rs 300). On the menu, this meal, too, is advertised with a salad and dessert. But it came without either, or even the garlic bread. The dish itself was filling, though, thanks to the sinful white sauce and a generous portion of vegetables.

The one-bowl meal of Chilli Chicken Rice (Rs 250) lived up to its name and had bite, making it perfect for a palate that craves spices. There was a generous amount of rice; we only wish that there had been a few more chicken pieces.

From the stuffed pav section, we opted for Kheema Mutter (Rs 250), which made it to our list of favourites (along with the pizza). It came packaged with crunchy fryums on top. The pav was overflowing with kheema-mutter, which was mildly spiced and yet tangy, and the portion was big enough to make this a meal in itself.

While we tried the appetisers at the time of delivery (so we'd know what they tasted like hot and fresh), saving them for later in the day, they tasted just as good when re-heated in their microwave-friendly containers.

The tangy Barbecue Chicken Wings (Rs 225) was sweet and spicy thanks to the homemade barbecue sauce with honey. The Veggie Manchurian Style (Rs 200) had greens doused in spices, though it would have been better had they mentioned in the menu that this dish is dry.

But in spite of the few lapses, overall, The Bowl Box offers delicious treats at reasonable rates. And we'll be sure to give it another shot.

Time: 12 pm to 1 am
Delivery areas Lower Parel to Bandra.
Call: 9004097371

Bavarian Bouquet and Tropical Froth 

A trend we have seen in menus across the city is the use of the term, progressive global cuisine. This covers everything under the sun and allows chefs to serve dosas or dimsums. Many falter in delivering the best of each cuisine, while others manage to gain footfall.

Andheri's newest brewery (in place of The Pump Room, which was a brewery too), Barrel & Co has a menu that falls in this category. The interiors are industrial with a surprise mix of S&M, in the form of a large cage and mannequins decked in chains.

Beer-infused Chicken Supreme with Dukkah Spice 

Butter Chicken and Jeera Rice (as part of lunch thalis) and Spaghetti Lamb Bolognese fight for attention. We hope for the best and order their craft beers first. We have a weakness for wheat beers and the Belgian Wit ('190 for 330 ml) has the perfect grainy flavour with a hint of citrus. The Hopfenwiezen and Irish Red Ale (both '190) need a little more finesse for a smooth transition of the many flavours they pack. The most unique offering is the Bavarian Bouquet ('210), a floral, sweet beer that we guess will polarise opinions. It's unlike anything other breweries serve and the aroma reminds us of an exotic spa — we don't mind it one bit and call for another mug. One thing that all the beers lack is a good head. To further experiment with the Belgian Wit, we pick Tropical Froth ('300), a cocktail that makes the most of the citrusy nature of the craft beer when mixed with orange, apple and pineapple.

Zucchini Stuffed with Cottage Cheese and Cream Melange; (bottom) The industrial interiors. Pics/ Dhara Vora Sabhnani

Happy with the beers, we try a Mini Dosa Taco with Chicken Sukka ('290), Beer-infused Chicken Supreme with Dukkah Spice ('275) and Zucchini Stuffed with Cottage Cheese and Cream Melange ('275). We are not disappointed. The chicken skewers are tender and the coating of dukkah adds a woody taste to the meat. The stuffed zucchini, comes on a bed of chutney-like paste and the rolls are stuffed with delicate paneer. The chicken stuffing of the dosa tacos starts with a sweet taste and then hits spicy notes, balancing the flavours. The dosa is a tad soggy.

Like us, other tables seem to be having a good time, too. Several tables are filled on the Monday evening when we visit. With good food, aptly priced craft beers (just two options for bottled beers is a downer) and a well-designed entrance to property that will soon become an Insta favourite, Barrel & Co calls for a revisit.

Sola is a new Soho restaurant from chef Victor Garvey, a man who was born in New York. But moved west, to Los Angeles, at just one month old

Sola is a new Soho restaurant from chef Victor Garvey, a man who was born in New York. But moved west, to Los Angeles, at just one month old

Of the abundant quantities of jackfruit grown in India annually, an estimated 70 per cent rots away, due to lack of awareness and difficulties of usage. Now, a joint initiative by an academic institute and a farmers' group seeks to change that. Shrikrishna D reports.

The soon-to-be-chain restaurant Lyfe Kitchen is shooting for responsible, healthy, and delicious fast food.

Rotch Library - GT2853.T9 I856 2018

Kettle Cuisine Midco, LLC, a Lynn, Mass. establishment, is recalling approximately 200 pounds of ready-to-eat (RTE) lentil and beef soup products due to misbranding and undeclared allergens.