The Obama administration ban didn't last very long at all.

A while back, we had the opportunity to meet an influential and acclaimed US-based Indian restaurateur cum chef who was visiting the city to catch up with his team in the city, where he also runs a couple of popular and innovative restaurants.

Unaffected by all the lights, accolades and glitz of New York, he was still a pucca Bandra boy at heart. He hadn't forgotten his roots, and his mother and grandmother's recipes, evidence of which had peppered the warm chat, from a recent fish preparation that his mum had whipped up, to taking poee - those pillowy cushioned bread portions - to the West. We went on to discuss the ever-changing cityscape, from the Metro to a quaint abandoned bungalow near St Andrew's Church that had been razed since the last time he was home. Expectedly, there was a lot of 'Bombay' food that was discussed - a topic close to our soul.

The restaurateur-chef's passion for the city, his Goan ancestry, and the dynamic diversity of India are pretty obvious in the menus at his restaurants, and there were plans to go all out and celebrate it even more at these spaces. It made for an engaging afternoon, no doubt, especially when our favourite city's flavours and aromas were put on the table. It was a promising sign. At least, for Bombayphiles like us, who been yearning for more of the city on its menus, and has often been a topic-stirrer in this very same column space.

Around the same time, we had got wind that a restaurant in SoBo, coincidentally also owned by a Goan chef, and which was one of the earliest eateries to give the city a wonderful mix of food from Bombay and the sunshine state, was rechristening itself into all-out restaurant that would pay tribute to the city's food - from kheema pao and bombil fry (are you salivating?). The picture was getting rosier.

We jogged our memory a bit more, to roughly two months back, to another chat with a celebrated chef-restaurateur who had stirred many gastronomic revolutions in the city, and is now running a successful fine-dine. Turns out, the veteran culinary wiz would love to start his very own Bombay restaurant. Of course, there was nothing final to it but his wide smile made us do a little virtual jig about the possibility of his opening such a space. Food from the city had always impressed him, he told us, from Bohri Mohalla favourites to Maharashtrian staples, and the city's fresh catch. Like millions who arrived in this city and made it their own, he too was inspired with its variety, and was keen to celebrate it for the world to savour.

All these three instances - albeit borrowed from different scenarios - were adding up to something that should have happened a long time ago. The city's very own brand of cuisine ought to be put out there, a unique confluence of its thriving local inspirations, its migrant flavours and countless techniques from its many communities. Most world-class, cosmopolitan cities, from Toronto to Singapore flaunt it, so what has been stopping us so far? We'd love to see more entrepreneurial minds stir this melting pot and showcase Bombay's flavours, the way only we know of it.

mid-day's Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city's sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana Send your feedback to mailbag@mid-day.com

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Eat with your hands, please," Lloyd Braganza who runs one of Goa's most popular restaurants, tells us, rolling up the sleeves of his floral shirt, revealing a koi fish tattoo. We are at Copper Leaf, one of the best fish thali destinations at Porvorim, and for company we have chef and restauranteur Braganza, his wife Nerissa and their seven-year-old son Naethan. Llyod stops talking when the thali arrives. A mound of rice and a crispy fillet of matzo are skirted by coconut curry, clams masala, kismuri (dried fish and coconut salad), bhindi fry, gulab jamun, sol kadi and banana.

"This is Goa's most authentic thali, and locals as well as tourists come here for their fill," Marissa tells us. The fish has a sweet freshness, and the curry is hearty. The meal switches on our sussegad mood. But, there's more to this stop than indulging in gluttony. Six years after enticing Goans with delicious meals at his eatery, House of Lloyd, the family is set to open shop in Mumbai and ahead of its launch, the Braganzas are happy to give us a tour of their Goa-inspired menu.

The pork chops

Fish Market: The next stop is the Malim jetty where most of the fresh catch of the day coming in from along the coast is sold. Scenes of women haggling over prices, to fishermen unloading their catch and slicing the guts, greet us. We see ribbon fish, ponies and sole fish drying in the sun, apart from mud crabs piled in open crates.

Yeast Ecpected, Poie: We are at a nameless bakery. We enter a small room that opens into a dungeon-like opening with a woodfire oven burning a crimson orange. In a corner, a mixer is folding dough. One of the bakers, Gajanand Naik, shows off a basket full of poie. "At midnight, we start making poie. The dough is mixed for 30
minutes and left to rest for three hours," says Naik. Made from husk and wheat, the art of poie has lost a prominent ingredient — the toddy. When the Portuguese introduced the bread in Goa, they replaced yeast with locally available toddy.

Plum and white chocolate with vodka

Rassa Omelette: Our next stop is, again, an unnamed snack stall. "You are known by your product. There's no need for a name," Braganza laughs. A server puts a fat chunk of omelette on a plate and drowns it in rassa. We tear a piece of poie, that soaks up the gravy. The fluffy omelette and poie do little to douse the spice notes from the Kashmiri chillies and garam masala giving the curry its kick.

Fruit Cocktails Pork chops and Serradura: Our final stop is at House of Llyod, situated on the veranda of his 150-year-old ancestral home. Braganza has thrown over a chef's coat over his shorts and is busy behind the bar. Christmas seems to have come early as we alternate between a green jalepeno-passion fruit cocktail and a vodka-spiked plum and white chocolate. No sugar, juice or additives, the cocktails are blitzed on order. Braganza's food sings a melodious tune, one whose lyrics have been written over years oscillating between struggle and success. In 1996, his first venture was Chopsticks, a Chinese restaurant at Baga, which put him on the Goa culinary map. "I had no culinary degree and brought on board a chef from Royal China in Mumbai, to help. By 25, I had money and luxury cars. Then, I had to shut shop because of losses, " says Braganza. He began at the lowest rung, again, as waiter. In 2003, he opened Lloyds, a five-table Goan and barbeque restaurant in Calangute. Partners drove his business to closure in 2011. "Nerissa coaxed me to give it one more try. It would be my last one, I told her," Braganza recalls. The same year, together they rebuilt the restaurant on the current premise — a tile-roof open-air tent that gives the feel of a garden setting overlooking the heritage property. She took charge of the front of the house, and he revisited his childhood to master family recipes with his mother.

The Juhu outpost. Pic/Ashish Raje

Soul Food: Goan food, says Branganza, is meant to be consumed two days after it has been cooked. The gravies thicken from concentration of flavours. We understand this when we dip a garlic poie into a bowl of bloody red sorpotel. The spares have merged with the spices and transformed the curry with meaty flavour. This dish is one of the most tedious to make, Braganza says. "First, you boil the meat, dice it, and fry the parts separately. After frying the onions, you add the meat that will hold the masala," says Braganza. While it is best served three days later, chef has a serving reserved for himself that is two years old. For the Mumbai outlet, all the house curries and sauces, along with poie, will come from Goa. The most awaited dish — the barbeque grilled pork chops — makes an entry. "This takes me back to my heydays. At Lloyd's, when I fired the grill, people would follow the aromas to order the dish that was smelling so delicious," says Braganza, falling silent when the dish arrives. The meal ends with Marissa's serradura, a classic cream and biscuit pudding. The dry powder is soothed by the creamy condensed milk mush and we lick our spoons clean. We can't wait to have the next serving back home. Mr and Mrs Braganza, welcome to Mumbai.

Chef Lloyd Braganza with wife Nerissa and son Naethan

Also read - Mumbai Food: Chef Raji Gupta's pop up offers flavours from Kerala to Goa

Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news, crime news, current affairs, and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates

Pranav Mody, mixologist at Sassy Spoon, puts final touches on the Berry Berry Khatta

While creating the bar menu for Juhu's +91, head of operations Jatinkumar Jajal, was clear about one thing: The teetotallers shouldn't feel shortchanged. Having refrained from boozy binges whenever in the driver's seat, Jajal was familiar with the plight of non-drinkers, who often have little to woo them at bars. "I wanted to go beyond the regular fresh lime soda," he says. That the restaurant has been inspired by the highlights of regions across India, meant the drinks had to toe the line. Jalal spent three months travelling the length and breadth of the country as part of his research.

Puerto Rican Sunrise. Pics/Bipin Kokate

Today, +91's bar menu boasts of 40 options, of which 20 are mocktails including a Slushy Aam Imli Panna prepared from raw mangoes of Konkan and Banarasi Paan Colada made of paan, fresh cream and pineapple from Varanasi. "Most restaurants don't exceed four options," he says. As it turns out, Jajal isn't the only one applying his talent to non-alcoholic drinks.

The bartender at +91 garnishes the Slushy Aam Imli Panna. Pic/Sneha Kharabe

Jitin Merani, chief operating officer of Drinq Barmen and Academy, who has designed the menu for Irish House and Magazine Bar and Kitchen, feels bars are no longer all about alcohol. In fact, he recently designed an elaborate mocktail menu for Kill Cafe at Seven Bungalow with over 20 options. "A lot of traditionally teetotaller communities like Marwaris and Jains have started frequenting bars. Hence, restaurant owners are feeling the need to invest in their non-alcoholic section," he says. Merani feels it's the holistic experience that counts. "People want a good ambience, great food and a drink worth their salt, whether alcoholic or not," he says.

Pranav Mody, mixologist at Sassy Spoon, believes the trend has picked up in the last couple of years. "A lot of people who visit the restaurant don't prefer alcohol, either because they're teetotallers, are trying to go healthy," says Mody adding that the festivals season also witnesses a drop in demand for alcohol. The Sassy Spoon upped its mocktails menu during a revamp last year. "We felt mocktails offered a chance to experiment with fresh fruits and herbs that hold health properties," he says. In fact, one of their signature mocktails, the Berry Berry Khatta made of fresh mulberries muddled with oranges, grapes and kala khatta, inspired a cocktail. "We decided to spike it with some Absolut raspberry vodka, and the flavours blended beautifully."

The inherent ability of alcohol to lend flavour to a drink has made many bartenders focus more on cocktails. "Alcohol has its own elements that bind flavours together. Mocktails, on the other hand, are notoriously known for having high sugar content," says Mody. He gives us the example of a Virgin Mojito and Caprioska, which are almost impossible to prepare without sugar. "I do get several requests from patrons for sugar-free variants of these drinks, but if I don't end up adding sugar, it'll taste extremely sour," he says. That's where fresh fruits and sugar replacements like honey and stevia count.

While some restaurants may have upped their mocktail menus, it's still not up everybody's alley. Terttulia at Prabhadevi has refrained from having a mocktail section altogether. But as owner Imrun Sethi insists, his team entertains requests for mocktails. "Most of our cocktails can be made into mocktails. In fact, our bartenders are always customising drinks based on requests we receive. No mocktail has ever been a high seller even in the past and the current health wave doesn't help," he says. Sethi is of the opinion that many teetotalers have now moved from drinking mocktails to other beverages, and therefore they never see a very high demand for mocktails.

There is always the lure of savouring dishes not available to others; something with a limited edition feel, a sense of secrecy. Most restaurants have off-the-menu dishes, and reasons for their classified nature can be anything from the chef wanting to surprise his patrons to the lack of constant supply of a particular ingredient. Here's a curated list of dishes from across city eateries that chefs won't readily tell you about. Regulars would know, of course, and now they are all yours to try.

Pita pocket
At: Henpecked, Kala Ghoda

Mini pita pockets are cooked in a traditional Neapolitan oven where the "torched wooden logs take up the heat of the dome-shaped oven up to 600 degrees", says head chef Ajay Thakur. The heat transforms the simple pita pocket into what's best described as a Mediterranean phulka. "We stuff it with farm fresh veggies or meat." Thakur learnt to prepare the dish during a trip to Dubai. "That's where the idea struck me. Anything between pita breads is worshipped there," he says. Since it's easy to make, there's hardly ever a chance of it not being available if you ask for it.

Why off the menu? "It is good to surprise your customers. Since the dish employs a unique technique, we like to keep it a secret special."

Beetroot Ice Cream
At: Su Casa, Bandra

When chef Dev Rawat concocted a recipe for the Beetroot Ice Cream, he knew it wouldn't be up everyone's alley. Rawat, who did not want to tamper with the original flavour of the vegetable has, therefore, kept the dish moderately sweet with little sugar.

While he does recommend it, the orders don't exceed five a month. "I have a penchant for the quirky, so it's fine if it's not popular," he says.

Why off the menu? "For any dish to have a place on the menu, it must do justice in terms of sales. Besides, it takes an unusual palate to enjoy roasted beetroot ice cream."

Grilled Kangaroo Fillet With Grilled Baby Spinach and Potato Salad 
At: Estella, Juhu

It was during a trip to Australia that Chef Rohan D'Souza tasted the grilled kangaroo for the first time. "I especially liked the way the Australian chefs play with meat preparations," says the head chef at Estella. His curiosity to learn new cuisines and experiment with dishes motivated him to replicate it at the restaurant. The dish is recommended to guests depending on the availability of meat. "Mostly Australians based in Mumbai choose this," he says. Served with grilled baby spinach, sauce café de paris and warm mustard potato salad, the grilled kangaroo fillet tastes similar to buffalo meat, he says. "It has a wonderful taste that adds a lot of flavour without being overpowering."

Why off the menu?
"Kangaroo meat doesn't come cheap. It's about R4,500 a kg, and is a rare meat available only in Australia."

Bhut Jolokia Chicken Sandwich
At: Dive, BKC

Chef Munawar Taher Peerzade, who heads BKC's Dive, often sees patrons reaching for the tissue box after taking a bite of the Bhut Jolokia Chicken Sandwich. He introduced the item on the appetisers menu when the restaurant launched early this year, but realised it might not be everybody's cup of tea. "I was forced to take it off, because not everybody has a threshold for spice," he says. The bhut jolokia chilli is a hybrid chili pepper cultivated in Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Nagaland and Manipur, not easily available in Mumbai. At the restaurant, the chillies are ground into a paste along with other spices to whip up the base sauce for the sandwich.

Why off the menu? "We get the oddball customer who asks for something fiery, so I realised it makes for a good off-the-menu chef's recommend snack."

3 Bean Paella
At: Luca, Lower Parel

This Spanish dish, we are told, is prepared in limited quantities at this newly opened restaurant in Mathuradas Mills. "There are several other bean-based dishes on the menu. This one is only available under chef's specials on specific days. It is, however, available to anyone who asks for it," says head chef Shankar Kokkula. But it's not an eat that can be customized. "It is meant to be had the way it is made, because it is a chef's special." The dish packs in a punch of pulses, loaded with haricot beans, black-eyed beans, kidney beans, green peas and rice, served in a bowl. "It's a free-style dish; you can add vegetables as per your choice and availability of ingredients. The core preparation, however, remains as is. We add paprika for that added fire." This is Kokkula's own spin to the Spanish staple.

Why off the menu? "I have been a fan of the Spanish delicacy and wanted to experiment with it. I didn't include it on the menu since I wished that it be made available on select days."

Honey Darsaan
At: Four Points by Sheraton, Navi Mumbai

It was as a rookie chef that Ashvini Kumar, now executive chef At Four Points by Sheraton, in Navi Mumbai, picked up the recipe of Honey Darsaan, a Chinese Dessert made with fried wonton noodles. Here, the noodles are drizzled with honey and sesame seeds and accompanied with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Although the chef's favourite, it lost out to other desserts during a menu revamp, and was replaced with Granny Smith Apples and Toffee Ice Cream. But like Kumar, there are a few guests who
dig the dessert.

"We get around 10 orders for the dish," he says.

Why off the menu? "What happens with fast food desserts is that it's an extensive spread, and you can't have them all on the menu, because it creates clutter."

Thali Sweet accompanied by kadio bodio

For Bandra resident Sophia Netto, the month of September meant eight days of festivities, courtesy the iconic Bandra Fair that the suburb hosts annually. Held in four lanes that dot Bandra's Mount Mary Basilica neighbourhood, it celebrates the birthday month of Mother Mary. "You could spend an entire day at the fair. There would be pageants like September King and Queen, games and cane product stalls that everyone would throng to, and all-night long jam sessions by Catholic bands at Mount Carmel's September Garden with an entry fee of `1. We would binge on potato chops, candy floss and kadio bodio, a deep-fried sweet stick of refined flour dipped in sugar. Even black chana would be heaped at stalls," recollects 54-year-old Netto, who offers black chana and kadio bodio as complimentary treats at BKC's SodaBottleOpenerWala as part of the outlet's ongoing festival, Bandra Feast, which recreates the fair experience.

East Indian Pork Sorpotel

In collaboration with chef de cuisine Danesh Vakshoor, Netto has created a special menu comprising East Indian and Goan delicacies. The menu features Mutton Potato Chops (Rs 195), where fried-till-golden breadcrumb crusted mashed potato shell is stuffed with minced meat, and Vegetarian or Chicken Lonvas (Rs 295), cooked with the famous East Indian bottle masala and thick coconut milk. It also stars East Indian Pork Sorpotel (Rs 295) and East Indian Vindaloo (Rs 295) where the pork is marinated overnight and slow-cooked. "Most homes in Bandra would be open to guests till midnight, who would arrive from different parts of the city and beyond to seek blessings at the basilica. I remember my mother making kilos of sorpotel and vindaloo. I've used her traditional recipes for the menu," she adds. End the meal with Thali Sweet (Rs 175), a festival speciality made with coconut semolina and eggs.

Sophia Netto

The restaurant has also been dressed up with ribbons and balloons that are a throwback to the helium balloons, which were a common sight at the fair. The line-up also includes a retro jam session with in-house DJ Farhan and saxophonist Amar Sukhi on Thursday night, and breakfast housie on Sunday. The idea, says Netto, is to revive the fair's charm. "Unfortunately, it has now turned into an extension of the Hill Road hawking zone," she rues.

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Written by Ina R. Bort Recently acquired by the New-York Historical Society, this small plate adorned with the “Votes for Women” slogan is linked to Alva Vanderbilt Belmont, a notable New Yorker whose fascinating, improbable life trajectory began as a society doyenne and ended as suffrage activist. This, the first of three posts, explores perhaps the...

The post Suffrage on the Menu: Traces of the Life and Legacy of Alva Vanderbilt Belmont appeared first on Behind The Scenes.

Written by Ina Bort Our last post explored the biography of Alva Vanderbilt Belmont, the doyenne-turned-activist we believe commissioned this plate’s manufacture. Today we explore the first of two likely scenarios where this and similar plates may have been used: The suffrage conferences Alva organized at Marble House, her Newport estate, in 1909 and 1914....

The post Suffrage on the Menu, Part II: The Marble House Conferences of 1909 and 1914 appeared first on Behind The Scenes.

Written by Ina Bort In our last two posts, we explored the life of Alva Vanderbilt Belmont and dropped in at her Marble House suffrage conferences in Newport, where “Votes for Women” plates like this one may very well have been used. But it may be that these plates were instead (or also) used—that is,...

The post Suffrage on the Menu, Part III: Alva’s Political Equality Association Lunchroom appeared first on Behind The Scenes.

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