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Nyonya Kebayas are a hot commodity among fashion designers but the sense of tradition is either missing in many of the new fusion designs or lost in the hefty price tags.

Not wanting to see glitter and glamour get in the way of what a truly traditional Nyonya Kebaya is, Penang Nyonya Lily Yew Chooi Lian took up the hobby of sewing the transparent garments three years ago.

Spending about five hours to make one kebaya, Yew has made numerous garments for friends and family and has had several of her creations flying off to distant places like San Francisco and Saigon.

“What used to be worn for going out of the house is now reserved for festive and formal occasions and it is a pity because the Kebaya is so elegant and beautiful,” said Yew.

“The Kebaya is part of my cultural heritage and it looks good for all occasions, which is why I took up sewing the blouses three years ago,” she added.

While the more than RM1,000 price tag on most modern Kebayas prevent many from owning one, Yew does what she can to spread her love for the traditional wear by making it affordable for friends and family.

Her quest for affordable material was a long one because the embroidered sleeves and hems are difficult to do.

“The motifs are done by machine and are usually floral but with the imagination of some embroiderers, you can find cute animals, insects, geishas in kimonos, little China dolls, dragons and phoenix, to name a few,” said Yew.

Luckily, Yew was able to find a cheaper alternative with a shop that orders the material from Indonesia, but stocks can be sporadic.

“I like my Kebayas elegant and feminine so I sew them as close to the traditional style as possible with princess cut (pesak) and all French seams.”

This style leaves no margin for mistakes and makes it very hard to sew, which is why Yew only does them in standard sizes of small, medium and large.

Yew is open to orders from people but stressed that she is only sewing the Kebayas in her spare time as she is a busy grandmother. Yew has a variety of fabrics that customers can use to make the transparent blouse.

“I want to share my love for the Kebaya and make it affordable,” said Yew.

“I try to sew a whole range of colours to suit everyone and I also have pieces of embroidered materials in different shades for clients to choose from, but I do not make to measure.”

The Kebaya began as a long sleeved blouse with lace appliquéd around the edges. It is the traditional costume of Straits Chinese ladies and other Peranakan women from Indonesia and Thailand.

It is worn with a Javanese batik sarong and to be properly dressed, a Nyonya will have her hair in a chignon (sanggul) with flowers and gold pins.

The lapel of the Nyonya Kebaya is held together with a set of three brooches (kerosang) while the sarong is folded and secured with a gold or silver chain-link belt.

For the feet, beaded slippers are a must. In Penang Hokkien, the Kebaya is called Pua T’ng Teh, meaning midway between long and short.

For the modern look, the Kebaya can be worn with pants, over a simple sleeveless or spaghetti-strapped dress or even used over a tank top as a jacket.

Materials used to make the Kebaya include coarse voile (kasar robia), non-iron georgette and shantung for its lovely sheen.

Nyonya Kebaya has to be hand washed, using a little starch for the voile ones so they can last a long time. Antique pieces have lasted through the years because of the use of starch.

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A few months ago I wrote a very personally challenging article about pursuing a life of radical holiness in an extremely unholy world. You can read the full post here. In it I explore a common theme in scripture where God is calling His people to a life set apart from the rest of the world.

Leviticus 20:26 says, “You shall be holy to me, for I the Lord am holy and have separated you from the peoples, that you should be mine.”

Deuteronomy 7:6 says, “For you are a holy people to the LORD your God; the LORD your God has chosen you to be a people for His own possession out of all the peoples who are on the face of the earth.”   

1 Peter 1:14-16 says, “As obedient children, do not conform to the evil desires you had when you lived in ignorance. But just as he who called you is holy, so be holy in all you do; for it is written: ‘Be holy, because I am holy’.”

Just to name a few.

But how do we pull off holy living in a culture armed and ready to drag us down at the first opportunity? Well, lucky for us, we don’t serve a God who doles out commands then leaves us on our own to figure it out. He supplies us with plenty of scriptures to give us guidance as we navigate these tricky waters. Scriptures such as . . .

Therefore, since we have these promises, dear friends, let us purify ourselves from everything that contaminates body and spirit, perfecting holiness out of reverence for God.  – 2 Corinthians 7:1

But among you there must not be even a hint of sexual immorality, or of any kind of impurity, or of greed, because these are improper for God’s holy people.  – Ephesians 5:3

Do you not know that your bodies are temples of the Holy Spirit, who is in you, whom you have received from God? You are not your own; you were bought at a price. Therefore honor God with your bodies.  – 1 Corinthians 10:19-20

Finally, brothers and sisters, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable—if anything is excellent or praiseworthy—think about such things. – Philippians 4:8

I appeal to you therefore, brothers, by the mercies of God, to present your bodies as a living sacrifice, holy and acceptable to God, which is your spiritual worship. Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewal of your mind, that by testing you may discern what is the will of God, what is good and acceptable and perfect. – Romans 12:1-2

“It would appear that we are to do any and everything we can think of to keep our minds, hearts, eyes, ears, and bodies as pure and clean as humanly possible. It seems to be pretty clear too, that this is not something that will happen passively. It will take a proactive, aggressive, and seemingly radical effort on our part to pull it off. The reason being that not only are we called to pursue holiness, but we are called to do it while still going out and making disciples. Sure, you could hole up in some underground bunker with nothing but a supply of food and a Bible in order to avoid all worldly influence. But what good are you down there? 

The Word gives us so many reminders to pursue holiness and instructions on how to do it because in order to further the Kingdom we will be forced to be out among an unholy world – one that is growing more depraved by the minute. And no matter who you are, if you surround yourself with that which is against God, and fail to guard your heart and mind, you will undoubtedly get taken down.” (taken from earlier post)

So where do we draw the line? Many believers hide under the cloak of “staying culturally relevant” to justify their pursuit of worldly desires. And unfortunately for a lot of them, that relevance has become a full-on camouflage, making them almost unrecognizable as a Christ-follower. But how did Jesus do it? How did He manage to maintain his holiness while mixing it up with the worldliest of the worldly? I believe that his motivation is what set him apart. He didn’t hang out with tax collectors and adulterers just to understand their world better. He spent time with them in order to show them a love they’d never encountered before. He invested in them so that they would leave changed, not the other way around. He was able to do this so effectively because of his deep, intimate communion with the Father and his commitment to a bold level of purity. Is it supposed to be any different for us as believers, as spiritual influencers, as leaders in the Church?

If you’ve had time to look at your calendar as it’s flown by, you may have noticed that Lent starts next Wednesday, March 1^st. For many churchgoers, this season serves as an opportunity to sort of re-center their spiritual lives by removing something for the 6 weeks leading up to Easter. For many it’s something like caffeine or sweets. For others it’s a worldly pleasure such as television or social media. Whatever it is they choose, the purpose behind eliminating it for those 40 days is to try to emulate the 40 days that Jesus spent in the wilderness before he began his years of earthly ministry. It’s an attempt to make a personal sacrifice so that the ultimate sacrifice Jesus made on the cross weighs a little heavier on their hearts and minds. But then what?

As I was reflecting on past years when I’ve chosen to participate in Lent and am still being challenged by what the Lord spoke to my heart when writing the post I referred to earlier, I began mulling over several questions in my spirit.

Should Lent look different for mature believers as opposed to those younger in their faith?

What about for leaders in the Church?

How could we approach Lent in such a way that the effects are lasting?

Perhaps you’ve observed Lent for as long as you can remember or maybe this is the first year you are considering participating. Whatever the case, I wonder what it would look like for us to prepare for that holy season with a healthier portion of intentionality and purpose. What if, as leaders of God’s people, we decided to amp things up and instead of just choosing something to get rid of for a few weeks, we did a full scale inventory of our lives and began pruning out all of those things that distract us, that are not God-honoring, and that hold us back from pursuing the holiness we are called to? Can you imagine the eternal reverberations that might cause?

Maybe this year we still choose that one thing to eliminate for March 1^st – April 16^th, but instead of going about our daily lives for those 47 days (did you know that you don’t include Sundays in the day count?) we pray fervently for God to reveal to us those things that just don’t belong in our lives – those things that take up way too much of our time, attention, money, conversation, and preoccupation - and we begin purging and clearing out those hidden places. What a beautiful Easter morning that would be! What a glorious offering! That, my friends, is NOT your grandma’s Lent! That, brothers and sisters, is the makings of a revival!

On this short Mother's Day episode, Madzimoyo Owusu came to StoryCorps with her daughter, Johannah Owusu, to honor the memory of the woman who helped shape her life.

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Hans Niemann is gearing up to play tens of thousands of players simultaneously at Web Summit. The chess world will try and break a new record at the Web Summit technology conference in Lisbon this week when Grandmaster Hans Niemann competes online against what he hopes will be tens of thousands of…

As followers may recall, I started hand stitching hexies for a Grandmother's Flower Garden quilt in March, 2012... three years ago. Watching my friend, Christy, basting sweet, reproduction fabrics around paper forms, making little stacks of 3/4-inch hexagons, I just couldn't resist! These Beadlust posts show the various steps to making the quilt top and the start of  hand-quilting in more detail than this post.

Although I'm still hand-quilting, the end is in sight now. I'm hoping to finish in time for our County Fair in August.

In this post, I thought it might interest you to look at how much time it takes to complete each of the steps in hand piecing and quilting a 3/4" hexie quilt, and the total number of hours involved. I'm basing time estimates for all of the repetitive steps on how long it takes me to do a large number in one sitting, after having practiced... in other words, at my best speed.

Step 1 - Planning the Quilt and Getting Fabrics - time: 20 hours

I decided to make a version of the traditional 1930's Grandmother's Flower Garden quilt that is less common than the one with a path or ring around each of the flowers. I chose this design. Note the green hexie leaves, which form a vertical-horizontal grid.


The final size is 72 x 92 inches, a comfortable size for a twin bed, a total of 4,694 hexies. I wanted to use as many different fabrics in this quilt as possible.

• flowers = 280 different print fabrics with any background color except green or white.
• leaves = 150 different print fabrics in green
• flower centers (repeats OK) = 25 different solids
• double border = 1 print + 1 solid

Although I had collected 30's reproduction fabrics for a few years, I certainly needed more. From a selection of fabrics given to me, fabrics purchased in an eBay auction, and my stash, I found enough to make each of the flowers unique. Although there were not enough greens to make the leaves unique, I had about 60 different green prints, such that each is not repeated more than 3 times in the quilt. So, in the end the quilt includes more than 360 unique fabrics!

Step 2 - Wash and Iron all of the Fabrics - time: 15 hours

Yikes! A few of the fabrics I wanted to use were already washed; most were not. Knowing it should be consistent, and worrying that the reds might bleed, I decided to pre-wash and iron all of the fabrics. Doing this step in stages, as I acquired fabrics, I'm not really sure how long it took, perhaps quite a bit more than the above estimate.

Step 3 - Cutting and Trimming all of the Hexies - time: 28 hours

For each of the  4,694 hexies, I cut a 2" square of fabric, and trimmed off the four corners. Of course, I cut and trimmed in multiples, except for a few that I fussy cut individually. Again, since I did this step in stages, the above time estimate is a bit rough.

Step 4 - Basting the Fabric to the Paper Hexie Forms - time: 235 hours

Once I learned that using YLI quilting thread for basting makes it go much faster than using regular sewing thread, I was able to baste 20 hexies per hour.

Step 5 - Stitching Hexies Together to Make Flowers - time: 105 hours

Averaging 2.5 complete flowers per hour, it took me about two and a half 40-hour-work-weeks to whip-stitch all 238 full and 42 partial flowers. There are 14-17 whip-stitches per 3/4 inch seam.

Step 6 - Stitching a White Hexie Ring Around 130 of the Flowers - time: 130 hours

On average, it takes me 1 hour to whip-stitch 12 white hexies around each flower.

Step 7 - Layout Flowers for Quilt Top; Note Position on Each - time: 4 hours

I didn't fuss too much about the layout, spreading out the flowers randomly, making sure the red ones were evenly spaced, and that no areas were overly dominated by one color. Assigning each row a letter and each position within the row a number, I marked each flower on the back (writing on the center paper piece).

Step 7a - Half Flowers and Double Border All Around - time 90 hours

This is an update, added Feb. 2018. (I can't believe I forgot this important step when writing the original time line.) To make 42 partial flowers to fill in the gaps around the edges of the top, I cut fabrics, basted hexies, joined petals, and then stitched the partials into the gaps. To make the outer border, I made 522 individual hexies, stitched them into rows, and then stitched the rows onto the top.

Step 8 - Sew Flowers into Small Groups - time: 90 hours

To assemble the quilt top, I grouped 8-12 flowers, and whip-stitched them into a solid piece. There were 30 pieces, which took about 3 hours each to complete.

Step 9 - Sew Small Groups Together to Complete Quilt Top - time: 123 hours

I first sewed the small groups into rows, then stitched the rows together. As the sections got larger, the stitching took longer, making it difficult to estimate the time with total accuracy. I did a couple of time tests at different stages of the process in order to figure the above total. I completed this step on March 1st, 2013, one year after basting the first hexie.

Step 10 - Iron/Starch Top, Remove Papers and Basting Stitches - time: 33 hours

Removing all the basting stitches and papers took a lot longer than I would have guessed. But when I look at the pile of basting threads, it begins to make sense.

Step 11 - Assemble Quilt Layers, and Baste - time: 12 hours

Christy and Lunnette helped me layout the back, batting, and top on the floor; then baste in a 4 inch grid. I think we pinned it first, then basted, then removed the pins. On our knees for most of the time, it sure was wonderful to have their help!

Step 10 - Quilt and Embroider the Flower Centers - time: 70 hours

Choosing a floss in a similar color to each flower center, I embroidered a flower. Intentionally, some of the stitches act as quilting stitches, while others slip between the layers and don't show on the back. Around the edges of the quilt, it took about 15 minutes per flower center. Toward the middle of the quilt, it took about 20 minutes per flower center.

Step 11 - Quilt Flower Petals - time: 106 hours

Quilting around the petals of each flower requires turning the quilt 270 degrees for each petal, which is why it takes at least 20 minutes per flower, longer toward the middle of the quilt when the whole weight of the quilt must be constantly shifted. There are 238 whole and 42 partial flowers. I'm figuring an average of 25 minutes per whole and 10 minutes per partial flower.

Step 12 - Quilt Around White Rings - time: 65 hours

Like quilting the flower petals, quilting around the outside edge of each of the 130 white rings requires turning the whole quilt as I work, which adds a lot to the time it takes. I believe quilting the entire top in a diagonal grid of straight lines would take about half the time it takes to follow the curved, zig-zagging path of the hexie flowers, leaves, and rings.

Step 13 - Quilt Around Each of the Leaves - time: 79 hours

Not only does this step require turning the quilt as I stitch 360 degrees around each leaf, it also requires knotting and burying the tail at the start and finish of each leaf. Also I'm changing color of thread to more or less match the fabric color for each set of 4 leaves. Around the edge, it takes about 9 minutes per leaf; toward the center 11 minutes per leaf. There are 474 leaves total, at an average of 10 minutes/leaf.

Step 14 - Assemble Hexies for the Border Facing - time: 37 hours

To face the double (print + blue) border on the back of the quilt requires 522 hexies. To sew them together, forming the border strips, takes about 1 hour per 14 hexies.

Step 15 - Trim Backing and Batting; Blind-stitch Facing to Border - time: 13 hours

There are 264 hexies around the outside edge of the quilt top. Since I have not done this step yet, the time estimate (blind-stitching 20 hexies together per hour) is somewhat rough.

Step 16 - Remove Paper Pieces and Basting from Border and Facing - time: 10 hours

Again, since I have not done this step yet, the time estimate is based on the time it took to remove paper pieces and basting threads from the quilt top.

Step 17 - Blind-stitch Facing to Quilt Back - time: 13 hours

Step 18 - Quilt Around Print Fabric Border - time: 13 hours

Step 19 - Blanket Stitch Around Outside Edge of Quilt - time: 10 hours

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Total Time to Complete Hand-Piecing the Quilt Top: 873 hours

This is equivalent to nearly 20 weeks or 5 months on a 40 hours/week job. It took me a year. Mostly the time flew by as I basted and hand-stitched the little hexies together. Always there was a new print to enjoy, a new stack mounting in size to admire, a growing quilt top to thrill me.

Total Time to Complete Hand-Quilting: 428 hours

Since this job isn't completed yet, the time is only a rough estimate, based on the times it took to do some of the already completed steps. In all, hand quilting will take the equivalent to 10 or 11 weeks of full-time work. I find the quilting rather very boring. After taking a break for more than a year, I started working on it again and hope to be finished by August this year. Audio books are the answer to the tedium for me.

Total Time, Start to Finish: 1,301 hours

With Steps15-19 still to complete, the total is a rough estimate. Still, it is obvious that making a quilt like this, start to finish, requires more than 1,300 hours or the equivalent of over 8 months of full time work. If I were to be paid only minimum wages (2015, Seattle, WA - $11/hr.), the cost of the quilt would be $14,311 + about $500 in materials, or a total of $14,800.  Good thing I intend to keep and use it myself!

UPDATE, July 4, 2016

By June, 2015, I completely finished one corner, an area big enough to photograph so I could submit an entry form to the 2015 La Conner Quilt Festival, sponsored by the La Conner Quilt & Textile Museum. On August 7th, 2015, I received notice that it was juried into the show. Wow! That sent me into high gear for sure. After working non-stop, 7 days a week, and an average of 10 hours per day, I inserted my needle into that quilt for the last/final time on Aug. 24th, 2015, just days before delivering it to the museum. It took me 3 years and 3 months, start to finish!


I was surprised, honored, and incredibly pleased to find out it won the Curator's Award of Excellence, one of the top awards, which then qualified it to be shown at the museum for the month following the Festival. Note, the finished size is 71 x 93 inches, and there are 4,700 individual hexagons in it.


Big work for both hands, but sooooo satisfying!


In fact it was so satisfying that I've started another hexie quilt... Can you believe it? So far, I've made 733 hexie flowers for it! Although they are the same size hexies, there are no reproduction fabrics and the arrangement will be anything but traditional. Don't know why I love the hexagon shape so much... but it's certain that I do.

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PRINCE WILLIAM followed the Queen's lead with a touching VE Day message yesterday, and archive footage has cast a light on the closeness of their bond over the years.

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Title: Ask Grandma to Dance to Boost Her Mood And Strengthen Your Bonds
Category: Health News
Created: 4/17/2020 12:00:00 AM
Last Editorial Review: 4/20/2020 12:00:00 AM

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The Argentine forward is a true superstar of the game and one of the most famous players on the planet, but here are some things you might not already know about him.

1. He has scored at least seven goals against every other La Liga Santander team
All LaLiga teams naturally fear Messi when he comes up against them, with the No.10 having netted at least seven times against all 19 of the other sides currently in the top division. His favourite victim is Sevilla, against whom he has a whopping 37 goals in 38 appearances. Over his career, he has faced 40 different clubs in the Spanish top flight, with only three yet to concede against him: Cadiz, Murcia and Xerez.

2. He first played with fellow Barcelona captain Gerard Pique in 2000
Messi and his current Barcelona teammate Gerard Pique have spent most of their footballing lives together. They were both in the same team in Barcelona’s La Masia academy, along with Cesc Fàbregas – part of the so-called “generation of ‘87” and conquered almost every challenge in their path. It was clear from that early age that these players would go on to achieve great things and, although Pique spent time at Manchester United and Real Zaragoza before returning to Barcelona, they have both been in the Blaugrana first-team squad together since 2008, playing 471 matches together. Messi has only played more often alongside Sergio Busquets and Andrés Iniesta.

3. He pays tributes to his grandmother after every goal
The sight of Messi pointing towards the sky with both hands after scoring a goal has become an almost weekly occurrence in LaLiga but not many people know its meaning. It is in fact a tribute to Grandmother Celia, who Messi credits with sparking his interest in football and supporting him as he took his first steps in the game. Sadly, she passed away in 1998 and never saw him play at the top level, but his iconic celebration ensures that her spirit lives on.  

4. He could have played for Spain at international level
Messi has represented Argentina throughout his international career, but he could have been wearing the red of Spain had he accepted an offer to join the national team of the country where he has spent his entire professional career. After spending his childhood in Barcelona, he was eligible to play for the 2010 world champions, but Messi says the idea never crossed his mind. The rest, as they say, is history as he has gone on to become Argentina’s all-time top scorer with 70 goals.   

5. His footballing idol was Pablo Aimar
Many up-and-coming players consider Messi as a role model, but it’s easy to forget that he had an idol growing up too, just like any other aspiring footballer. His was fellow Argentina and former Valencia and Real Zaragoza playmaker Pablo Aimar. They faced each other in LaLiga on several occasions, including on one special night in 2004 when Aimar came up to the 17-year-old Messi, an unused sub on the night, after the game to offer him his shirt. He still treasures that jersey to this day. 

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