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Why artists and designers are revisiting stories behind old photographs


Photographer and graphic designer Anusha Yadav started the Indian Memory Project, an online, visual, narrative-based archive in 2010, to trace the history of the subcontinent via photographs and letters. Pic/Ashish Raje

EarLier this week, artist and oral historian Aanchal Malhotra, 28, travelled nearly 240 km to Chandigarh from Delhi, to meet a nonagenarian, who had lived through the Partition of 1947. As she speaks about it now, there's a lump in her throat. "I couldn't sleep that entire night," Malhotra confesses. "Even 70 years on, the woman is so afraid to talk about it. It had everything, from gun fire, to fleeing from her home in Pakistan, to her brother and mother being taken as prisoners, and to giving birth in a forest on her way to India. When she first delivered the baby, her immediate response was to throw it away. You can imagine what trauma she was experiencing." What surprised Malhotra most was when the 90-year-old asked her what she would do with her story. "I said that I wanted to publish it. The woman's immediate response was, 'who will read this?'. They really think that nobody cares. But, this is the story that has shaped the future of contemporary India."


The jewellery Aanchal Malhotra is wearing, was made in the North-West Frontier Province and was given to her great-grandmother, Lajvanti Gulyani, by her in-laws on her wedding to Hari Chand Gulyani in the year 1919. But it could have been in the Gulyani family before that as well. Since she became a widow quite young and was a single mother at the time of Partition, it was carried by her to India in 1947 because she thought she would be able to sell it and earn money to put her children through school. She then gave it to Malhotra’s grandmother, who has now given it to her. Pic/Nishad Alam

Malhotra is the author of Remnants of Separation (HarperCollins India), a book that revisited the Partition through objects carried across the border, and the co-founder — along with Navdha Malhotra — of The Museum of Material Memory, a digital repository of material culture of the Indian subcontinent, tracing family histories and ethnography through heirlooms and objects of antiquity. Since the launch of the archive last year, the founders have put together over 35 heartwarming object stories. Closer home, photographer and graphic designer Anusha Yadav's Indian Memory Project — an online, visual, narrative-based archive, founded in 2010, which traces the history of the subcontinent via photographs and letters — has helped us see history in another light. There is also Paris-based perfumer Jahnvi Lakhota Nandan, whose recently-published book, Pukka Indian: 100 objects that Define India (Roli Books), documents the most coveted symbols and designs representing our culture, by tracing its origin and significance in our lives. All three projects while different in essence and form, have one common intent — to record untold stories from our history and preserve them for posterity. But, as Malhotra's subject asked her, why should anyone be curious?


The chakla and belan originated in 7,500 – 6,000 BCE in Punjab. At the time, this region was cultivating wheat and barley extensively. Rather than using the flatness of the chakla and the pressure of the belan to what we might expect to be used around the country to make flatbread, whatever the ingredient might be, it is only in this region of north India that the chakla and belan were used simply because wheat and barley lend themselves to kneading. What must have been perceived as a high-technology kitchen tool then, the chakla and belan soon spread to other parts of the country. Text courtesy/Pukka India by Jahnvi Lakhota Nanda, Roli books; Pic/Shivani Gupta

Celebrating the mundane
Nandan, an alumnus of the School of Art and Design at Tsukuba University, Japan, admits that her project stemmed out of her curiosity to find out about the designs that define us an Indian. "Design is a mirror of our attitudes and habits. Through the course of writing this book on Indian design, I found that uniquely Indian gestures like churning, combing and calculating were reflected in it," she writes in the book. From the dabba, agarbatti, and kulhad, to Babuline gripe water, most of the objects Nandan chose for the book, have "either been made or originated in India, or have an element that is very Indian, or are being used in a very Indian context".


This picture is of Purvi Sanghvi’s grandfather Dwarkadas Jivanlal Sanghvi (extreme right in a black coat) and his brother Vallabhdas Jivanlal Sanghvi with their business partners at a Pen Exhibition in Bombay around 1951. The family ran Wilson Pens that quickly rose to huge fame and became a preferred choice of pens across the country. All government offices, law court, used the Wilson pens. The Wilson Pen Family made the orange, thick-nibbed pen that wrote the most fundamental document that defines the state of India: The Constitution of India written by Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar. Pic, Text Courtesy/Indian Memory Project/Contributed by Purvi Sanghvi, Mumbai

It's while working on the book that Nandan realised how "our own homes are a repository of history". Here, she relays an incident when Shivani Gupta, the photographer for Pukka Indian, had been anxious about finding a mandira — a butter churner — that Nandan had mentioned in the book. "She went home, and realised that she had five of them in her kitchen. She didn't even know she was sitting on so much wealth." Nandan adds, "We don't tend to celebrate the mundane. What we celebrate are things that have obvious value, like jewellery, the beautification of the body or the exotic."


Paris-based perfumer Jahnvi Lakhota Nandan's recent book, Pukka Indian, documents the most coveted symbols and designs representing Indian culture, by tracing its origin and significance in the lives of its users. Pic/Suresh Karkera

Object as a catalyst
Malhotra's interest in people's histories began while working on Remnants of Separation, which was an extension of her Master of Fine Arts thesis project for Concordia University, Canada. Malhotra's research began after she came across a gaz (a measuring device) and ghara (a pot), which belonged to her nana's family, and had crossed the border. "Sometimes the Partition is too traumatic to speak about. When I started my research, I didn't know where to begin or what I could ask, without sounding frivolous. The object became a catalyst to enter into that conversation. So, rather than me saying 'Oh! You lived through the Partition, that must be awful,' I was now asking relevant questions, like 'why did you choose to take this gold bangle with you?'. The object then, didn't become something that recessed into the background, but something around which the entire background was arranged."

That's when she and Navdha decided to start The Museum of Material Memory. The duo encourages everyone to contribute, provided the object is from or before the 1970s. The archive comprises everything from a 5-inch-long, mottled sewing needle to a chaddar with traditional baagh and phulkari embroidery and a former Class II Income-Tax officer's diary filled up with the repeated words 'Sri Rama Jayam', meaning Jai Sri Ram. Each post is accompanied with the story behind the object. "Material ethnography is so vastly explored in the West, especially when it comes to events of trauma and crisis. What we are recording here, will never be found in any textbook. We need active memoralisation, not just of traumatic events, but of our tradition and culture, which is primarily oral."

Not just for nostalgia's sake
The indianmemoryproject.com, says Yadav, started off as a book idea, where she wanted to collect old, wedding photographs. "I wanted to document the idea of weddings in different cultures, and explore the entire phenomena behind the crew that makes it possible," she says. "While the book didn't happen, the pictures stayed with me." That's how, her archive, a first-of-its-kind in India, took off. "If you are fascinated with history, you will know that India really is a melting pot. Every civilisation has passed through it. And so we have all kinds of DNA in us. And considering photography was discovered two centuries ago, we did have a lot of content to discuss," says Yadav.

She admits that it wasn't as easy to get people to share their photographs or talk about their stories. "But, there needs to be integrity, transparency and you need to earn the trust of your subject. When you have these value systems in place, people are more open. I always thought of the archive as an institution." Funding for the project has been tough, says the archivist. "When I began, I was very clear that I didn't want to become a trust. Unfortunately, that's the channel through which most of the money comes from. But, there's a server and maintenance cost and the site constantly needs to be upgraded. Now, I have started putting in requests for honorariums. The only way I will get money is through a private funder, who is fascinated with the idea, and wants to back it as well. Sometimes, when a good sum comes from my own work as a photographer, part of the profits go to it. At the end of the day, it is an unofficial record of history, and I'm doing my best to sustain it."

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Elections 2019: Dog, best companion-turned into-campaigner in Mumbai

A dog with pro-BJP stickers on its body was detained along with his master in north Maharashtra's Nandurbar town where polling for the Lok Sabha elections took place Monday.

Eknath Motiram Chaudhary (65), a resident of Navnathnagar area, was spotted with his dog near Andhare hospital Monday afternoon. The dog's body was found covered with stickers bearing the BJP's symbol and the message "Modi Lao, Desh Bachao" (Vote for Modi and save the country), a local police official said.

As the polling was underway, police had received a complaint about the dog and his master who were roaming around the town, he said.

A case was registered against Choudhary under section 171 (A) of the IPC for violation of election rules which prohibit campaigning on polling day. The police have asked the municipal corporation to take custody of the dog, the official added.

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COVID-19: BMC assigns IAS officer to each of city's 7 zones

As Coronavirus cases continue to rise in the city, the civic body has decided to appoint an IAS officer for each of the city's seven zones. The officers have to improve the doubling rate of positive cases from the current 10 days to 20 days by May 17.

There were reports about differences of opinions as no one was assigned a specific work area. Now, with each officer responsible for a smaller area, administration is expected to be smoother. The BMC had six IAS officers, including the municipal commissioner, to run the various departments. The State assigned four more senior ones — three for the civic body and one for the four state-run hospitals — to boost management. In spite of years of experience, there were disagreements among officers and the result was seen in the handling of the pandemic. Sources said that some IAS officers expressed dissatisfaction over the management.

BMC chief till Friday evening, Praveen Pardeshi's order is expected to improve administration and accountability. Each of the city's zones is headed by a Deputy Municipal Commissioner. The newly-assigned officers have to visit their zones every day from morning to 2 pm and be in office till 3 pm. The civic chief is to conduct daily debriefing at 6 pm with focus on reducing the doubling rate.

These officers will supervise mapping of positive cases, contact-tracing, Containment Zones, house-to-house surveys and surveillance, identifying senior citizens with co-morbidities and their further treatment, fever clinics, facilitating private nursing homes, clinics, hospitals, etc., testing of symptomatic persons, CCC1 and CCC2 creation, community participation, etc.

While Abasaheb Jarhad, Suresh Kakani, P Velarasu and Jayashree Bhoj are additional commissioners with the BMC, Manisha Mhisakar, Dr Ramaswami and Ashwini Bhide have been deputed for COVID-19. Prajakta Lavangare has been appointed to handle CSR activities. Joint commissioner Ashutosh Salil is also on COVID-19 duty. Sujata Saunik has appointed to supervise JJ, St. George, GT and Cama Hospitals.

75% attendance in BMC

After initially cutting down employee strength by half, then increasing it to full capacity during the second phase of the lockdown, Pardeshi reduced it again to 75 per cent, barring essential services. The order says social distancing is not being maintained due to 100 per cent attendance. The focus will be on contact-tracing, quarantine centre management, upgrading municipal hospitals and pre-monsoon work. Officers and employees aged over 55 years and suffering from chronic health issues can work from home.

The civic body had been giving a daily allowance of R300 to frontline workers like nurses, doctors and sweepers. It will now give the allowance to assistant commissioners and employees at or below the post of executive engineers too.

Three officers — Pardeshi, Jarhad, and Bhoj were transferred by the government on Friday evening. Their designations remain as the decisions were taken while they held the posts.

Which zone has whom

Zone 1 (Colaba to Malabar hill and Byculla): Abasaheb Jarhad
Zone 2 (Mahalaxmi to Mahim, Chinchpokli to Wadala): Manisha Mhaiskar
Zone 3 (Bandra to Santacruz, Vileparle East to Jogeshwari East): Dr Ramaswami
Zone 4 (Vileparle west to Jogeshwari west, Malad, Kandivali): Suresh Kakani
Zone 5 (Kurla to Chembur, Govandi, Mankhurd): Jayashree Bhoj
Zone 6 (Ghatkopar, Bhandup, Mulund): Ashwini Bhide
Zone 7 (Kandivli to Dahisar): P Velarasu

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Clothes brand sign Kunal Kapoor as brand ambassador for 2 years

Kunal Kapoor in Indian terrain collection

Indian Terrain, India's leading menswear brand, signed up actor Kunal Kapoor for 2 years. The actor is a perfect mix of elegance and intensity, which truly resonates with the brand’s philosophy of 'Real Mature Manly'.

Kunal Kapoor is by far the most recalled Brand Ambassador for Indian Terrain. He was the brand’s first Brand Ambassador in 2006 soon after the release of one his most successful movie – Rang De Basanti. The association was quite successful and was rightfully bagged up with significant investments in the media from the brand’s side which lead to substantial improvement in the brand's awareness levels.

"He is known for his incredible talent and is celebrated by young fashion followers across India for his cool and sophisticated style. He truly is a reflection of today’s Indian Terrain man. Today, when we are both much evolved and richer in our individual experiences, we wanted to partner with Kunal Kapoor again and take the brand to the next level," says Venky Rajagopal, CMD, Indian Terrain Fashions Ltd.

"I have always loved the attitude of Indian Terrain. The brand is authentic, and they understand the culture of the everyday Indian man. The new range in store inspires passion, commitment and is very much testament to the great potential the brand has Kunal Kapoor commented.

Kunal Kapoor in Indian terrain collection

Recently, Indian Terrain partnered with Prashanth Shah, Senior Consultant Paediatric and Congenital Cardiac Surgeon, who has saved numerous lives of children with congenital heart defects, for its property “Indian Terrain Champion Sportive Series”. The series is billed as the biggest pan India cycling event for amateurs. It is also called #theheartride, where the total amount raised by registration at the events, will be matched by the brand to contribute towards surgeries. We saw Kunal Kapoor supporting the cause at the Champion Sportive Grand Delhi which happened on 3rd Sept 2017.

The total turnover of the brand is over Rs 600 crores and the distribution width expands over 250 cities in the country with 1000+ touch points. IT is also known as the No. 1 brand across Central & Lifestyle stores FY 16-17.





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Textile designer Vinay Narkar looks to bring back the chandrakala saree


The chandrakala saree

Every Sankranti, many married Maharashtrian women follow the tradition of meeting for the haldi kumkum ceremony, draped in black sarees. However, the black chandrakala saree that is traditionally associated with this festival is hardly worn any more. This week, Solapur-based saree and textile revivalist Vinay Narkar will bring the handwoven saree back into the spotlight with an exhibition.


The traditional motif

"Last year, I worked with the Irkal tradition of sarees, which is predominantly a north Karnataka and Maharashtrian tradition. During the process, I came across the chandrakala saree. I had heard about it since my childhood, through my grandmother and in literature. But I had never seen one; even my grandmother didn't own one. Most Maharashtrian communities follow the tradition of gifting a chandrakala saree in black or indigo blue to a bride on her first Sankranti," says Narkar. Though black is usually considered inauspicious, Narkar feels that it might have to do with the northern movement of the sun and the end of winter. He also found references of the saree in other colours.


A saree inspired by Raja Ravi Varma paintings

With the intent to revive the saree, which represents a starry night, and uses the star or moon motif, Narkar headed to Baroda to find a photo of Maharani Chimnabai Gaekwad in a chandrakala saree. He also found an MV Dhurandhar painting in Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya of a woman draped in this saree. The north Karnataka districts of Gulbarga, Bidar and Bijapur also follow this tradition. "Originally, it was a nine-yard Irkal saree with star or moon butas made with khari print. It then extended to other weaving traditions such as the Paithani (with the motif being dots) and Chanderi. The motif of the moon with a flower is seen in the Benarasi tradition too. I have also used the intricate zari kasuti embroidery from Karnataka. Black Paithanis still exist, but chandrakalas were lost," rues Narkar. What sets the chandrakala saree apart from the others is that it's not a weaving tradition but an aesthetic; the saree can be woven using different techniques.


Vinay Narkar

Narkar feels that one of the reasons that led to a decline in popularity was the khari print used to make the motif. It would wear out in places and not last long. "Also, may be the style preferences changed with time. The biggest reason, which applies to most disappearing weaves of Maharashtra, is because it was one of the earliest states to be industrialised. Other regional sarees such as the Vidarbha saree, the Solapur saree, the Poona saree have all disappeared," he explains. For this collection, Narkar has worked on a cotton silk fabric to give the saree a vintage feel associated with the tradition.

'Textiles speak of history'
"Each region of India has different stories associated with its crafts. These fables are even mentioned in ancient Indian treatises. Craftsmen narrate these stories even today. Textiles also speak of recent history, as there was a distinct class segregation for weaves worn by the royals and the masses. The practice of gifting the black saree for Sankranti continues even today. My mother-in-law had gifted me a navy blue saree for Sankranti, which was the closest to black as we don't wear black in our family," says designer Shruti Sancheti who works with various weaving clusters of Maharashtra. Yellow for Saraswati pooja, and gold and red or white and red for weddings, the use of colour and motif bears specific significance. "I am a Rajput, and several people and royals from my community wear black on Diwali as it falls on amavasya," explains Sancheti.

Also check
Narkar will be displaying a set of contemporary sarees with the use of optical art. He has also recreated a Paithani from the Peshwa era, which is displayed in Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, Pune. The black saree uses the polka dot motif. "The gaudy Paithanis are a result of modern times. I found the dot motif in Mumbai's old markets where people sell zari from old sarees." Another story from the collection is the Raja Ravi Varma saree. "Ravi Varma was very fond of the nine-yard saree. Almost all his characters were seen wearing it. He has used the same design of the saree in different colours for his paintings - Laxmi in red, Saraswati in white, Radha in pink for romanticism, and Subhadra in blue," says Narkar.

From: January 11 to 13
At: ARTISANS', Kala Ghoda
Call: 9820145397

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Liberal designers Masaba Gupta and Kallol Datta choose symbols of conservatism


One of the images in Masaba Gupta’s Insta-only campaign features model TJ Banu in a chiffon saree, the pallu draped around her head like a hijab

In a world divided by political agendas and religious regulation, women's clothing is defined through moral dress codes. "Do we have the freedom to wear whatever we want, when there are no dress codes for men?" asks young Mumbai designer Masaba Gupta, through her "Can't" series of T-shirts and caps launched as part of Tiger Lily, Spring/Summer 2018 line. One of the images in her Insta-only campaign is of model TJ Banu in a chiffon saree, the pallu draped around her head like a hijab (left in pic).


Kallol Datta introduced a range of hijabs, as part of his runway collection in 2015, with pattern cutting experiments of 3D inserts, embellished in tassels and foil print

In January 2016, Dolce & Gabbana released a "modest-wear" range, joining the likes of Oscar de la Renta and Tommy Hilfiger. H&M released a first advert featuring a Muslim woman in a hijab in 2015, and House of Fraser now stocks athleisure hijabs, designed for Muslim women to wear while exercising and swimming. But the rebellious interpretation of a conservative style has seen both criticism and cheer. Veteran designer James Ferreira welcomes the newfound reverence. "We've endured the West's interpretation of fashion for far too long... open any magazine, and there are tits all over," he says. Ferreira first designed and retailed a range of hijabs with badla work (intricate Indian embroidery in metal thread) as long as 30 years ago.

Kolkata-based Kallol Datta's emancipated designs occupy a middle ground between the genders. That he is inspired by the Islamic style of cloaking is a result of having spent his early years in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Kuwait. He began designing abayas and kaftans in 2008, and called his version "sleeping bags". It's only as recently as 2015 (right in pic), when he introduced a range of hijabs with pattern cutting experiments of 3D inserts, embellished in tassels and foil print, and sold them at stores in Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.


Masaba Gupta

"It's a cool move," Ferreira says of Gupta and Datta's new designs. "Masaba and Kallol are mending broken ties between communities; it's like what the beard did post 9/11. At a time when the world began associating the beard with a political event, men from across cultures and countries embraced the beard. Solidarity is always heartening," feels Ferreira.


Kallol Datta

How do you explain using femininity as a tool of empowerment or rebellion?
Masaba Gupta: We create clothes on steroids, what we call churning out "maal". While Tiger Lily, our S/S 2018 collection, has a lot of new prints, the colour palette of knockout pinks and bottle greens stays true to my brand's aesthetic. It's an elevated, easy-to-wear collection inspired by the modern-day woman. So it's online campaigns that allow me a creative release, a platform to have an opinion. I was empowered rather than fearful when shooting the campaign. There's always the fear of being trolled on social media, but then that happens anyway.

Kallol Datta: It's not so much about being rebellious as it is about asking, how do you shroud yourself in fabric? As a designer, I pay attention to the fabric's form rather than the human form, hence layering and shaping remain at the core of my designs. It's also a familiar space [hijab] since I spent most of my early life in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Bahrain.

Why pick a symbol of conservatism?
Masaba Gupta: The starting point of the idea was to talk about our best-seller sarees. And the saree has been constantly debated... in relation to how it should be worn by a specific type of woman to why the youth are apprehensive about embracing it. That's why the decision to showcase the saree worn by real women, as opposed to models, in the campaign shoot. Middle Eastern women think that a saree is intrinsically Indian, hence the idea of styling this drape like a hijab.

Kallol Datta: I enjoy working with native wear clothing in a template form to realise silhouettes, which keep changing as layers are added or subtracted. The chador, manteau, abaya, kaftan or hijab become great building blocks for me to work with. At the same time, clothes-making for me is rooted in anthropology.

When a politically engaging idea occurs to you, how long before you wonder if controversy will follow?
Masaba Gupta: I don't want to unnecessarily stir up a controversy, and have people protesting outside my home. My brand's business head doesn't always agree with my social media posts (laughs). But I also believe that there's a difference between being brave, creative and downright foolish. That's why I put a caption to the image: 'This is celebratory and not a gimmick. I want women to wear a saree the way they feel best, in keeping with their traditions and their comfort. Most importantly, for them to not justify, why they chose to wear it the way they do'.

Kallol Datta: It never crosses my mind. I've been mindful about not using symbols, or portraying national icons in my designs.

How does fashion become political?
Masaba Gupta: I find fashion a departure from controversy or politics. After India, my biggest business comes from Dubai and Kuwait. My job as a designer is done when my clothes inspire freedom in Muslim women to adopt fashion the way they desire.

Kallol Datta: When Eastern concepts move to the West, they often get lost in translation. A woman wearing a hijab, a man in a kaftan - they become visible markers of their communities. The lack of representation [of these markers] in editorials and fashion journalism means that you're telling them, 'we choose not to see you'. Although Indian designers cater to Islamic countries, it's rare to see indigenous cultural markers in their clothes. Indian designers haven't moved beyond lehengas and sarees; it's their bread and butter. They are ignoring a thriving demographic. It's heartening to see 'modest fashion' come into its own.

Also Read: Jacqueline Fernandez Had Fun Designing For MMA Fighters

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Designers discuss the challenge of making sustainable fashion that's sexy


The Story Re-Spun, Raymond's Khadi Project fashion show, was held on April 4 at its flagship store at Breach Candy

The guests gathered at Raymond's Breach Candy store earlier this month for The Story Re-Spun, a showing of the menswear brand's latest line, had one question on their minds - how will the corporate professional accustomed to crease-free workwear warm up to whimsical, organic khadi? But the team at India's oldest fabric retailer knew they had pressed the right button when the campaign around their just-launched Khadi initiative clocked 15 million views in 30 hours on their social media page.

Raymond has launched the collection in association with young designers Gaurav Khanijo, Anuj Bhutani, Ujjawal Dubey and Alan Alexander Kaleekal, and their choice of textile is the "fabric of the nation", which they call universal, and one that transcends age and social barriers. The brand has used its fabric technology expertise to lend khadi, drape and wash-and-wear qualities. The silhouettes and prints which comprise the collection of suits, tuxedos, bandhgalas, bomber jackets, hoodies, shirts and kurtas, are modern and approachable. To complete the look, on offer is a range of khadi accessories - ties, pocket squares, cuff links and shoes.


Varanasi-based textile developer and designer Hemang Agrawal's

"The design and technical teams from Raymond worked extensively with clusters of khadi weavers from across the country for over 12 months to give the fabric a whole new face and form," says Gaurav Mahajan, President-Apparel Business, Raymond. Style observers see Raymond's move as one that seeks to give sustainable fashion a nifty edge, a trait often compromised in the drive to produce ethical fashion, and promote indigenous crafts. Fashion entrepreneur and consultant Sabina Chopra says, in the absence of labels offering appealing sustainable designs at reasonable prices to the young buyer, Raymond's model could be one to ape. "Collaborations [between designers and fabric manufacturers] could be the way forward if we are to impact purchase," she thinks.


Summer 2018 collection reimagined Benarasi textiles to make minis and box-pleated dresses, and used Tanchoi and Katarwan weaving techniques to create the houndstooth pattern

While the world over, sustainable fashion champions fair trade, local techniques of production, and reuse and upcyling, in India, an ancient tradition of craft has moved focus to the revival of textiles. That it is currently also a political talking point, makes it complicated. "In India, we stress on sustainable fashion from an aesthetic point of view, motivated by the revival of textiles. There's too much of one thing, without regard for price point, the young customer demographic, fit or design," feels Delhi-based designer Arjun Saluja. He is currently occupied with creating a collection from upcycled cotton, with a focus on minimum fabric wastage. And so, the sustainable cause is a subtle story behind the collection, not its central identity.


After showing at LFW S/R 2018, The Good Loom showcased its summer collection of casual menswear and sarees, designed with a special focus on ethical production and getting the right fit at ARTISANS' gallery at Kala Ghoda last week

Hemang Agrawal, textile developer and designer from Varanasi, agrees. "Shoppers buy basis design and style. The ethical credentials of a label come later," he says. Living in a city that's at the heart of the ongoing revival of Benarasi weaves, he speaks of fly-by-night designers jumping in to claim to own the cause.

Agrawal decided it was time to rewrite the script; one that tested the sprightly, dressy competence of time-honoured Indian weaves. Un-Revive, his summer 2018 collection, included modern-day essentials such as minis Mary Quant-would approve, trench and box-pleated dresses, maxis, cropped pants and palazzos. He pinned his interest on the sustainability mast by working with master weavers from his hometown to create tartan checks, polka dots, houndstooth and geometric patterns using the Tanchoi and Katarwan techniques. "Why can't handlooms be young?" he says, explaining the thought behind using one of India's oldest textiles to create plucky, young designs.

Chopra wonders why sustainable clothes are devoid of colour or refined cut. A chunk of craft practitioners focusing solely on revival of textiles are taking for granted the design element of clothing. "Hence, the final tailored garment tends to be weak on cut, giving us tent-like, boring clothes…who decided colour is not cool?" she says. Veteran designer duo David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore of A&T push the boundaries when the former says, "Theoretically, you could do anything with craft, even design a bikini or hot pants. The trouble is, designers are not intervening into developing their own textiles. Ideally, they should."

A&T made a compelling case for ethics-meets-aesthetics with the recent #SadakSmart collection. Encouraged by DIY countercultural streetwear trend, the range looked at indigenous shapes, such as the salwar, kameez, saree and ghagra, and tipped them in favour of teasing everyday styles using updated versions of sequined Chanderi, aari embroidery, and floral patterns inspired by the great Indian chintz.

Not so long ago, anti-fit fashion found its moment internationally, and India, a land of drapes, was more than happy. The unstructured silhouette became an approved form of anti-fit, and handloom - one of the heroes of sustainable fashion - tagged along. Saluja points out that a change in design will take place only when we break the myth that hand-woven equals anti-fit. "The latter is about how you play with both, fabric and body - kiss it or turn it away from skin. Lend it form or leave it formless. Fabric development plus emphasis on silhouettes is key."

And so, good design is both the problem and the solution. Sustain, a 12-year-old apparel vertical of the Good Earth brand of luxury lifestyle, insists on being known as classically Indian. "We are not interested in being hip or cool. But we understand the value of offering modern clothing options that highlight India's incredible workmanship. It might be difficult to make khadi glamorous, so we've started working with Bhagalpuri silks for evening wear. Similarly, we've updated traditional embroideries by combining them with fresher colour ways," says Deepshikha Khanna, head of Sustain.

Rozana, a sub-brand of Sustain, positions itself as daily tonic for everyday wardrobe woes. Aimed at younger clients, it's a line of separates. Sassy shirtdresses, long and short kurtas, lehengas, kalidar kurtas and Hiba trousers are made in malkha cotton, khadi and muslin, priced between Rs 4,500 and Rs 22,000. Interestingly, timely interest by two of India's biggest fashion weeks has plucked the sustainable fashion lobbyists from their craft-based address to dazzling runways with dedicated show slots. The Autumn/Winter 2017 edition of Amazon India Fashion Week addressed the relevance of handlooms, while highlighting sustainable businesses with, The Handloom School. Supported by Good Earth, nine designers including Sanjay Garg, Neeru Kumar, Gaurav Jai Gupta, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Bal, Péro and Ekà worked with weavers and textiles designers under the watchful eye of textile revivalist Sally Holkar.

For the last seven years, Lakmé Fashion Week has dedicated a day towards the promotion of Indian crafts, recycling and re-purposing. "It started as a means to encourage dialogue on sustainable values. And with initiatives like #CraftisCool, we are working towards creating viable collections that appeal to high street sensibility," says Gautam Vazirani, fashion curator, IMG-Reliance, organisers of LFW.

This season, LFW collaborated with The Good Loom, an artisanal brand from GoCoop, (the first e-commerce store to win a national award for 'Marketing of Handlooms') to present a selection of smart, casual menswear and sarees, with a special focus on ethical production and getting the right fit. It was a sincere attempt at bridging the gap between how the country's Instagram generation interprets fashion and its duet with indigenous craftsmanship. "That sustainable fashion should be sexy, and not stop at mundane or homogeneous, is now our agenda. The millennials don't see themselves dressed in kaftans or anti-fit shapes," adds Vazirani. But he's up against a challenge. Designers often tell him of the 35+ consumer loving the anti-fit way. Saluja has an answer to that. "Let's not be blinded by the revival manifesto. Sixty per cent of India's population is under 35, and they are seeking stylish ready-to-wear options."

Challenge of handlooms: Colour forecast doesn't figure in our scheme
For 11-year-old label, Amrich, led by Delhi-based Amit Vijaya and Richard Pandav, instead of reinforcing a divide between ethical and non-ethical consumers, they prefer to be known as a Western wear brand of separates, infused with enough versatility to be worn in Indian styles. "Working with handlooms is not without its unique set of challenges. For example, we can't afford to follow the colour forecast, since we work with natural dyes. Plus, we work with tricky timelines. We have to work two years in advance since there is lot of back and forth between craftsmen and our design team," says Vijaya. Luckily, the two design and develop their signature shibori in-house, making it possible to control how the garment is cut. "It also allows us to keep the price affordable. The shibori range starts at Rs 13,000," he adds.

Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news, crime news, current affairs, and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates





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Sign up for a cacao-inspired dinner to rekindle your love for the fruit


Fabien Mason (centre) with Jane (left). Pics/Mason & Co, Danda Food Project

Did you know that for most its 4,000-year history, chocolate was consumed as a bitter beverage rather than as dessert? To see the various other ways in which cacao can be consumed, sign up for a pop-up dinner organised by Danda Food Project, in collaboration with organic chocolate brand Mason & Co.

Aditya Raghavan, cheese consultant and co-founder of Danda Food Project says, "The idea for this came about when Anandita [Kamani, co-founder] and I were discussing how astounding it is that we get beautiful dark chocolate from this plain-looking pod. We started doing some research, and that led us to Jane and Fabien Mason's Auroville set-up."

The result is a 10-course meal that takes you on a journey of tasting everything from the cacao fruit to the decadent chocolate that comes out of it. Most of the menu is shrouded in secrecy, and will only be revealed to diners on the day. "We want people to be excited by it when they see it," explains Raghavan, adding that there will be options for vegetarians and vegans, too. Without revealing too much, he gives us a sneak peek into what we can expect.

"The first course is a sorbet made with the pulp of the cacao fruit. We sourced close to 30kg of it from a farm in Kerala," says Raghavan, adding, "Very few people have actually tried the fruit. It tastes like a cross between a lychee and mangosteen." Another dish will make use of cocoa nibs, while a third will feature rich cacao butter. "For the sixth course, we have used 10-day aged molé [a savoury, chocolate-based sauce from Mexico] to create a dish," he shares.

Six of the 10 courses are savoury items, after which the desserts will start coming in. There will be nine drink pairings through the meal. Six of these will feature wine, while Abhishek Chinchalkar of Bombay Duck Brewing (and third co-founder of Danda Food Project) will be serving a Chocolate Stout.

"The tenth course is a digestif, featuring two items, Coffee as Chocolate, and Chocolate as Coffee. For this, we've played around with coffee beans and cold-brewed coffee to give you what looks like chocolate but tastes like coffee," says Raghavan.

Those who miss this pop-up need not worry, as Raghavan and Kamani will host a repeat meal at their Khar home on September 12.

On: September 7 and 9, 8 pm onwards
At: Magazine Street Kitchen, Devidayal Compound, Gupta Mills Estate, Byculla East.
Log on to: insider.in
Cost: Rs 5,000 to Rs 5,500





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Anil Kapoor pays tribute to frontline workers by joining #MainBhiHarjeetSingh campaign

Joining Punjab Police's 'Main Bhi Harjeet Singh' campaign named after the police personnel whose hand was chopped off on duty, actor Anil Kapoor on Tuesday paid tribute to the frontline warriors who are fighting against COVID-19. The superstar took to Twitter to express solidarity and laud the frontline workers.

"Here's a salute to our front-line warriors! You have our full support and we stand in solidarity with you in this war!" Kapoor tweeted and adding hashtags #MainBhiHarjeetSingh and #MainBhiPunjabPolice to his tweet.

"Main Bhi Harjeet Singh" - Personnel of Punjab Police on Monday sported name badges of their colleague, whose hand was chopped off while he was trying to impose COVID-19 lockdown restrictions in the state.

The initiative was part of a day-long campaign launched on Monday by Dinkar Gupta, DGP Punjab to display solidarity towards Sub-Inspector Harjeet Singh, who was part of the police team that came under attack allegedly by a group of Nihangs who were asked to show their curfew passes at a vegetable market in Patiala on April 12.

Doctors had reattached the hand of the 50-year-old in a surgery post the attack.

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Irrfan Khan passes away: Did you know the actor had designed his own costume in his debut film?

Irrfan Khan, who was undergoing treatment for Neuroendocrine tumour for the last two months, passed away at the age of 53 on April 29, 2020. The talented actor was admitted to Kokilaben Hospital for a colon infection, and on Wednesday he breathed his last.

Irrfan in an interview on the chat show Son of Abish opened up about his 1993-release Karamati Coat. "I was very happy because one just wants to work in cinema. Everyone kept appreciating me in television but I wanted to become a cinema actor. No one was offering me roles, even though everyone was appreciating me. But I got this part. So I was very happy and I thought that this is my big break," the actor was quoted by Hindustan Times.

The Piku actor had even designed his own outfit for the film. "For this, I got so excited that I made my own costume, chose the colours and everything. And the film had a walking shot; out of the three minutes, one and a half minutes was just the walking shot," he said.

Irrfan then went on to give stellar performances in films such as Haasil, Maqbool, Paan Singh Tomar, The Lunchbox, Piku and Hindi Medium. His international projects include Slumdog Millionaire, The Namesake, The Amazing Spider-Man, Jurassic World and Life of Pi. His last release Angrezi Medium too gathered critical acclaim.

It's not just Bollywood, but Irrfan Khan also took over the West with his talent and impeccable acting. In his almost three-decade career, the actor established himself as one of the most dependable performers in the Indian film industry as well as in Hollywood.

You'll be truly missed, Irrfan!

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Rahul Bose: Need ground campaign over decades for gender justice

Rahul Bose has been in association with Akshara Centre, an NGO that works towards women empowerment, to develop a campaign against domestic violence for over a decade. The actor believes the video—titled #LockdownOnDomesticViolence and featuring a string of celebrities, including Karan Johar, Sachin Tendulkar, Madhuri Dixit Nene, Virat Kohli and Anushka Sharma—was the need of the hour as cases of domestic violence have witnessed a spike amid the lockdown.

"The video had to be in three languages—Marathi, because the majority of our state understands the language, and Hindi, for the migrant population in the state. The English campaign has been noticed by people the world over," says Bose.

The state government has launched several numbers, including the uniform state helpline number 100, where women can register their complaints. One can probably determine the endeavour's success by studying if there has been a drop in the cases reported since the video released. However, he disagrees, "We have to consider the other possibility that domestic violence is continuing, and yet, women can't report it."

Ever since the release of Kabir Singh in 2019, and consequently, Thappad earlier this year, there has been a larger discussion about representation of casual violence on screen. The actor, however, believes movies have minimal effect on social behaviour. "There's little co-relation between the two factors. Films don't need to carry a positive message, but they shouldn't carry a negative one, that does disservice. A ground-up campaign, in which the same message is passed on consistently, film on film, year on year, can change behaviour more than a movie can." To make his case, he cites how the state of California launched a multi-media campaign against tobacco consumption, leading to a 12 per cent drop in sales after 20 years. "So, looking at the misogyny and status of women in India, we need a ground campaign over decades to attain gender justice. Then the Delhi gangrape happened, there was a significant push forward, but we need to be at it for decades."

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Designer Manish Malhotra remembers Rishi Kapoor, shares throwback video

Remembering the moment spent with late veteran actor Rishi Kapoor, fashion designer Manish Malhotra on Tuesday took to social media to share a throwback video from a movie scene featuring himself with the late icon. The 53-year-old fashion designer took to Twitter to share a video clip from the 2009 released movie 'Luck By Chance' where he shared the screen space with Rishi Kapoor for the first time.

Taking it to the captions, Malhotra wrote: "Some memories you will cherish more than the others. Miss you Rishiji." Earlier, on the day of the legendary actor's demise, Malhotra hopped on to Instagram to share a lengthy emotional note.

The designer in the note mentioned that he is 'heartbroken' after receiving the news. "I am heartbroken. This is sad and terrible. Rishiji will be truly missed. His brilliance is irreplaceable. My most favourite actor and a warm wonderful human being" reads the caption.

Rishi Kapoor passed on last Thursday morning in Mumbai after a two-year-long battle with leukaemia. In September 2019, the actor had returned to Mumbai after staying in New York for almost a year for cancer treatment.

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Nushrat Bharucha's on point stance on social media is one you cannot afford to ignore

Actress Nushrat Bharucha has been in the industry for quite some time and with lots of films to her credit, the actress was quite applauded for her role in Sonu Ke Titu Ki Sweety. While some of her films have done amazingly well at the box office, Nushrat has been working with some really good actors. And not just her acting prowess, Nushrat has also time and again made heads turn on the red carpet and also taken the internet by storm, be it her holiday pictures or the high slit gown picture, the Dream Girl actress has been doling out some amazing goals.

On social media, while we see Nushrat often giving fans a sneak-peek into her simple yet beautiful life, the actress also inspires them in many ways. From posting pictures with her fashion game on point to spending some quality time with her loved ones, Nushrat is undefeated when it comes to doling out fashion and life goals. While the actress often indulges in some fun activities in the virtual space, she totally connects with her fans. And going by her vacation pictures, we can say that she is living one amazing life.

Workwise Nushrat has had a series of hits in her filmography and next she will be seen opposite Rajkummar Rao in the movie Chhalaang and after that, she will also be seen in Hurdang.

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Telly Tattle: Saumya Tandon's COVID-19 campaign; Tushar Dalvi's digital debut

Telly actor Saumya Tandon is part of a campaign to distribute reusable masks and face shields to frontline workers on the streets. The Bhabhiji Ghar Par Hai actor was spotted in Andheri distributing the kits to vegetable vendors and police personnel.

Main bhi artist

Aishwarya Sakhuja, who has taken up sketching during the lockdown, is enjoying the process. "I never thought I would be good at it, but I've surprised myself. I still have a long way to go but my friends have been loving my sketches," she adds.

Mamma mia

Jag Jaanani Maa Vaishno Devi actor Madirakshi Mundle is bonding with her mother during the lockdown. She has special plans for Mother's Day. "I plan to cook her favourite meal and refurbish an old saree to a suit with embroidery work on it."

The web game

Mere Sai actor Tushar Dalvi is set to make his digital debut on Netflix with Anurag Kashyap's Choked. He says, "Working with Anurag Kashyap is a dream come true. His films don't underplay issues."

Slambook: Parull Chaudhry

One superpower you wish to possess?
The power of illusions.

One thing you won't share?
My mom's laddoos.

Your guilty pleasure movie?
Dumb and Dumber (1994).

One thing you are guilty of?
Of unknowingly hurting my parents.

Your worst project?
Being part of an episode of supernatural show in which I played a 300-year-old witch. Wearing prosthetics was painful.

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Phones in India more dear than significant other: Survey


Representational picture

New Delhi: If you've ever felt disgusted when your partner paid more attention to his/her phone on a date then you are not the only one. Most adults in India paid more attention to their smartphone than their partner when they were together, a new study has revealed.

Sixty per cent of adults surveyed said their partner paid more attention to their own smart device when they were together on a date.

The study, titled "Three's Company: Lovers, Friends and Devices" and released on Wednesday by Intel Security, aims to understand the online behaviour of people and how it affects their relationship with friends and significant others.

Money, gifts and a dinner in a glamorous restaurant mean nothing in a relationship when the partners pay no attention to each other. The study found that 57 per cent of those studied had to compete with their partner's smartphone for attention on a first date.

An intrusion into a relationship leads to a quarrel which is corroborated by the fact that 75 per cent of the adults reported getting into an argument with a friend, significant other, or family member over being on a device while together.

The study involved 1,400 Indian adults who use an internet-connected device on a daily basis.

Amid this lack of attention in relationships, it was revealed that 46 per cent of couples share passwords to social media accounts, 38 per cent share passwords to personal email accounts and, interestingly, nearly 35 per cent of adults share their work-specific devices and accounts with their significant other.

Intel Security suggested using long passwords including numbers, and lowercase and uppercase letters, as well as symbols.

This Valentine's Day, if you are planning to make your partner smile, make sure to pay more attention to his/her words than the text on your smartphone.





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Mayur Verma reacts after Shehnaaz Gill admits she regrets signing Mujhse Shaadi Karoge

Shehnaaz Gill signed Mujhse Shaadi Karoge immediately after she exited the Bigg Boss 13 house. The idea of the show was to find her a potential groom through various tasks and activities. However, during her last interaction with a portal, Shehnaaz accepted that she was not interested in the show and that she regrets being a part of it. She has always been clear about her feelings for Sidharth Shukla and has confessed them to him.

Mayur Verma, one of the contestants on the show has reacted to her statement. He said that they knew she was not interested in the show from the third day itself. He said that she told them to have fun and enjoy their stay in the house and that it should look like the best boys were shortlisted for her. she further explained to them that she liked Sidharth and he liked her too. The boys would joke with her saying that when she got married, they would push the car for her groom and her.

What do you think of this entire reality show controversy? Be sure to let us know in the comments below.

Also Read: Shehnaaz Gill says she does not care about other people’s opinions, but feels bad when they target her fans




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Coronavirus Outbreak: Tata Trusts launches countrywide health campaign on COVID-19

Tata Trusts has begun a pan-India community outreach to induce adoption of health practices, as promoted by the Government of India, in rural areas to prevent the spread of COVID-19. Beginning March 31, the exercise is expected to have already reached about 12 million people in 21 states.

The campaign '5 Kadam, Corona Mukt Jeevan', ranges from video messages in the country's languages, even dialects, short animation videos and infographics to audio messages, and SMS based messaging.

For wider deployment by any interested organisation, the Trusts have made publicly available through social media about 300 such videos and audio messages, in different languages, and dialects like Dongri, Kumaoni, Ladakhi, Garhwali, Santhali, Mundari, Kutchi (Gujarat) and Koborok (Tripura). All of them are available in the playlist here.

Over 70 celebrities from all over India, have lent their support with video and audio messages. Among them are Nana Patekar, Sonali Kulkarni, Harbhajan Singh, Ila Arun, Atul Kulkarni, Malini Awasthi, and Sanju Samson for Rajasthan Royals, to name a few.

The Trusts have deployed more than 430 master trainers in these 21 states who in turn have trained a pool of over 8,700 community resource persons (village volunteers) to deliver the message till the last mile.

Through the existing network of the Trusts' programmes, the volunteers, associate organisations of the Trusts, community radios, village-based public address systems, and use of various internet and communication technologies, the programme is expected to have reached out to about 12 million people till date.

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Global gaming brand Fnatic signs Luv Sharma aka GodNixon as their content creator

YouTubers in the PUBG Mobile scene in India. Godnixon mostaly famous for his tips & tricks videos where he shows various unique ways in which you can make the best possible use of the area/buildings be it bridges, squad houses, triple storey builds, warehouses and so on. With over 845K subscribers on YouTube and around 60+ million views on his YouTube channel, he is one of the mainstream content creators out there for PUBG Mobile.

Amazed by the quality of content available on his channel, Fnatic India has decided to take GodNixon overboard as their content creator. Is this a move to help the Fnatic PUBG squad perform better than their performance right now with some help from one of the best content creators out there? Or is it just that they want to take a step forward in a positive direction so as to create more opportunities for budding content creators out there?

GodNixon is one of the figureheads of the Indian PUBG Mobile community and was chosen as the country representative for India during PMCO in 2019. In the announcement video, he revealed that at the moment he is stuck in a hotel in Bangalore as the entire country is under lock down and he can’t get back home. As a result, he hasn’t been able to release content as regularly as he would like to. However, he did mention that we can expect a variety of content from both him and Fnatic in the near future.

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Sadhus' killing: Congress seeks UP CM's resignation

After two Sadhus were found murdered in Bulandshahr the Congress has attacked the Chief Minister for deteriorating law and order situation in the state. Congress Working Committee member and former Union Minister Jitin Prasada has demanded the resignation of Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath.

The murder of the two Sadhus came after a family of five have been found dead under mysterious circumstances.

Prasada in a press statement said, "It's time that the chief minister should step down as law and order situation is worsening day by day."

The Brahmin leader of UP has been accusing the government of targeted killing of Brahmins in the state and said that the government is trying to cover up such cases.

Priyanka Gandhi Vadra earlier tweeted that there should be no politics over the killing of sadhus but the Congress leaders have ceased the opportunity to attack the government.

Priyanka Gandhi in her tweet said, "Today in Bulandshahr, two sadhus were murdered while they were sleeping. The truth must come out after investigation in this heinous crime and at this stage no body should politicize this issue."

Two sadhus were found murdered inside a Shiva temple at Pagona village of Bulandshahr district in Uttar Pradesh on Tuesday.

The murder came to light when people reached the temple on Tuesday morning and saw the blood-soaked bodies. According to reports, the deceased have been identified as Jagandas (55), and Sevadas (35).

Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath has taken cognizance of the incident and directed the district officials to inform him of the investigations. He has also ordered strict action against the accused. One of the accused has been arrested by the police.

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Coronavirus outbreak: Indian Navy designed PPE gets nod for mass production

The Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) kits developed by the Indian Navy has obtained clearance certification for mass production, a top naval officer said on Thursday.

The PPE kits designed and produced by the Indian Navy were tested by the Institute of Nuclear Medicine and Allied Sciences based in Delhi, a DRDO organisation tasked with testing and certification of PPE. They have now been certified to be mass produced and used in clinical Covid-19 situations.

Shortage of PPE kits during the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic is of serious concern as it imperils the well-being and availability of the healthcare workforce, apart from adversely impacting their security and morale.

The PPE is required to meet stringent criteria on testing and the benchmarks of the same are set by the ICMR and the Union Health Ministry.

A team formed by the Innovation Cell, Institute of Naval Medicine, Mumbai, and the Naval Dockyard, Mumbai, collaborated to design and produce the PPE kits.

"The PPE passed with 6/6 synthetic blood penetration resistance test pressure (GoI mandates minimum 3/6 and above level as per ISO 16603 standard). It is thus certified to be mass produced and used in clinical Covid-19 situations," the force said in a statement.

The force also said that the cost for this PPE is significantly lower than the commercially available ones.

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Ryan Reynolds reignites hilarious feud with Hugh Jackman

Hollywood star Ryan Reynolds quipped that actress Deborra-Lee Furness should "hang in there" as she and her actor husband Hugh Jackman marked their 24th anniversary.

Jackman shared a post that read: "These 24 years have been the best of my life! And, as far as I can see, we keep getting better. I love you Debs with every fibre of my soul. Happy anniversary. #24," reports femalefirst.co.uk.

To which, Reynolds commented: "Hang in there, Deb." Reynolds and Jackman have had long tongue-in-cheek fake fights, with the Deadpool star even branding Jackman a "fraud" and not even Australian.

The two close friends frequently take playful jibes at each other in interviews and on social media and Reynold's latest comments come after "Greatest Showman" actor mocked him while congratulating musician John Legend on being named People's Sexist Man Alive.

Jackman warned the 43-year-old singer he needed to "fall in with the right crowd" now he has joined the "very, very prestigious" group to have been given the title and couldn't resist taking a swipe at his friend as he did so.

Jackman shared a video on Instagram of himself and Reynolds looking at the 2008 Sexiest Man Alive cover and gave a cheeky caption.

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Man attacks wife for ignoring him and watching 'Pakistani Drama'

A 40-year-old man allegedly attacked his wife with a chopper after he felt she was giving more importance to watching a show, 'Pakistani Drama', on her mobile phone than speaking to him, police said on Tuesday.

The accused, Asif Sattar Nayab, has a business of installing hoardings and stays with his family in the Salisbury Park area, they said. Nayab was arrested by the Swargate police and booked for attempt to murder after his wife registered a complaint against him on Monday evening, the police said. According to the police, the couple had a quarrel on Monday morning.

"The woman had sent her son to bring milk from a shop but when she found that the milk pouch was damaged and some milk had spilled over, she started scolding him. "Listening her voice, Asif intervened, which led to a heated argument between the couple," said a senior officer from the Swargate police station. The woman, in her complaint, said the quarrel escalated in the evening when Nayab came home and found she was not speaking to him, he said.

"When Asif came home from work, his wife went to the bedroom. When he went to the bedroom to speak to her, she kept watching a show named 'Pakistani Drama' on her mobile. "Asif felt she was ignoring him and giving more importance to the show on her mobile phone. Felt ignored, Asif attacked her with a chopper (a knife-like tool) in which her right hand's thumb broke," the officer said.

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Pune citizens to campaign against Sadhvi Pragya Singh Thakur in Bhopal

At least 100 people from the city will soon be on their way to Bhopal, to campaign against Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) candidate Sadhvi Pragya Singh Thakur. Pragya had recently courted controversy with her statements on former Anti-Terrorism Squad (ATS) Chief Hemant Karkare and the demolition of the Babri Masjid. She had claimed to have 'cursed' Karkare, which is why she claimed he was killed by terrorists in the 26/11 terror attacks on Mumbai.

The Election Commission (EC) has directed the police to file an FIR against Pragya for her remark that she was "proud" of her participation in the demolition of the Babri Masjid at Ayodhya in 1992.

On Wednesday, Mulnivasi Muslim Manch President Anjum Inamdar, former Justice B G Kolse Patil, former IPS officer Suresh Khopade and others came together to form a team of the people who will head to Bhopal next week, along with those were injured and kin of those who died in the Malegaon blast, in which Pragya is an accused. She is out on bail.

'An anti-social element'

Khopade said, "We live in a democracy and want our representative to respect our parliament and work for society. But it seems that Pragya is an anti-social element. We will campaign against her and the BJP for shielding and encouraging such destructive people to breach the peace in society." Their week-long campaign will involve going door-to-door and handing out pamphlets and telling people not to vote for Pragya. Bhopal goes to the polls on May 12.

Inamdar said, "Such people cause hatred between communities. We will make people aware of whom they are going to vote for, and tell them the consequences of that." Kolse Patil said, "Her statements speak about the way she is going to handle work. Why is no action being taken by this government against her when it usually files cases against such statements?"

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Vijay Mallya's son-in-law Samar Singh campaigns for Parth Pawar

The Congress and Nationalist Congress Party (NCP) are blaming the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) for shielding fugitive businessman Vijay Mallya, while his son-in-law is helping Parth Pawar in campaigning. Parth is the grand nephew of NCP supremo Sharad Pawar, and is contesting in the Lok Sabha elections from Maval constituency.

Parth, 29, is the son of former deputy chief minister Ajit Pawar. He is contesting against Shrirang Barne from the Shiv Sena who won the seat in 2014. The Sena-BJP alliance has given him another chance to contest, as he had won the Sansad Ratna Award.

Parth has often been seen accompanied by Samar Singh, who is married to Mallya's step-daughter, Laila. Singh is a businessman and investment banker based in the USA. Sources say Singh also handles Parth's social media. Asked about him, Parth said, "Samar and I have been friends for a long time. He campaigns for me like my other friends. Why should he be blamed for Mallya's wrongdoings? He is also returning to the US."

Singh was unavailable for comment but a friend of his said, "Samar and Parth are friends from Mumbai and know each other for ages. Samar and his wife are not much connected to the Mallya family as has been portrayed. Samar had joined Parth out of curiosity to see his friend contest the election and had visited few places with him to see the real situation. He has gone back to the US."

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Manchester United may beat Liverpool in signing Jadon Sancho

Former Liverpool mid-fielder Jamie Redknapp fears arch-rivals Manchester United are set to beat his former club for the signing of Borussia Dortmund forward Jadon Sancho. The 20-year-old Englishman is currently one of the most sought-after players in European football and Redknapp believes Sancho will end up in Premier League sooner than later with the Red Devils in pole position to snap the hot shot winger. "I think it is a matter of time with Jadon Sancho coming to the Premier League. We are talking about a genuine superstar. A player that can do incredible things with the ball. Played 70 odd games in the Bundesliga, scored 27 goals from a wide area which is very good," Redknapp told Sky Sports.

"We have missed out on the likes of the Neymars in the Premier League but he can come and really light it up. Personally I would call it. He will be a great signing for whoever he goes to. "I would like to see him at Liverpool, but I think he is going to end up at United though," he added. Since making the move to Bundesliga from Manchester City in 2017, Sancho's rise has been nothing but meteoric. In the last two seasons for Dortmund, Sancho has scored 20 goals and assisted 28 times for the German giants.

Speculations continue to surround Sancho regarding his big move to the Premier League with multiple top teams interested. Dortmund, meanwhile, have made it clear that it will take big bucks to prize Sancho away from the Signal Iduna Park.

Catch up on all the latest sports news and updates here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates.

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This story has been sourced from a third party syndicated feed, agencies. Mid-day accepts no responsibility or liability for its dependability, trustworthiness, reliability and data of the text. Mid-day management/mid-day.com reserves the sole right to alter, delete or remove (without notice) the content in its absolute discretion for any reason whatsoever




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Why It Makes Sense To Invest In Sovereign Gold Bonds As COVID-19 Plays Havoc

Posted by Equitymaster
      

Gold has indeed proven itself as an effective hedge against any downside risk. It has seen a sharp rise in the price rally since the first case of Novel Coronavirus was reported in November 2019.

In the beginning of March, gold prices fell marginally, however it is on the upswing and has retained its level above Rs 40,000 per 10 grams.

Graph: Gold's rising uptrend

Gold started to ascend last year when the US and China trade talks began and escalated in trade war, followed by similar trade wars of the US with other nations.

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These events have proved to be favourable for the momentum of the price of Gold. It played its role of a crucial hedge and store of value when other asset classes had witnessed high volatility and posted marginal returns.

Some of the other factors that have supported gold are...

  • The outbreak of COVID-19 with no evident containment yet
  • Economic uncertainty and fears of a virus-led global recession
  • Global GDP growth revised downwards and for across regions
  • Easy monetary policy action (of reduction in interest rates and stimulus packages) and an accommodative stance adopted by the central banks across the world to support growth
  • A crash in the oil markets due to lack of demand and excess supply with storage problems
  • A record-high global debt-to-GDP of nearly US$ 255 trillion (over 322% of global GDP) - 40 percentage points higher than at the onset of 2008 global financial crisis according to the Institute of International Finance (IIF), as the world is fighting the COVID-19 pandemic
  • The US Presidential elections later this year, in November 2020
  • Increased stock market volatility
  • The potential risk to the inflation trajectory.

[Read: Coronavirus Has No Antidote. Your Bad Investments Could Have.]

Besides, the lockdown brought upon due to COVID-19 pandemic is going to hurt the economy for a couple of quarters badly which will amplify the credit risk. The economic activity will slow grind to full capacity, prompting furloughs and pay cuts, and job losses across sectors, which will affect the credit line as the number of defaulters will rise because cash strapping will be seen.

Recognising the risk stemming from the bottom hit economy, where the growth projections by the IMF are almost 1.9% due to the CoVID-19, the NPAs of banks and NBFCs are expected to increase.

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[Read: How the COVID-19 Extended Lockdown Has Made Investments in 'Banking Funds' Very Risky]

Until the COVID-19 pandemic is contained and economic uncertainty prevails, the spotlight will continue to be on gold owing to the financial uncertainty it brings along. Even the IMF Global Financial Stability report highlights an increase in the level of risk among multiple global metrics and, therefore, the importance of owning gold in one's portfolio.

Hence, in my view, in the current situation consider allocating some portion of your investment portfolio to gold and its equivalents. This year buying gold in a physical form from your preferred jeweller or gold merchant may not be possible amidst the COVID-19 extended lockdown. But you can always consider Gold Exchange Traded Funds, Gold Saving Funds, Sovereign Gold Bonds, and/or Digital Gold, which are smart and unconventional ways of investing in gold.

Recently the Government of India, in consultation with the Reserve Bank of India, decided to issue Sovereign Gold Bonds. The Sovereign Gold Bonds will be issued in six tranches from April 2020 to September 2020 as per the calendar specified below:

S. No. Tranche Date of Subscription Date of Issuance
1 2020-21 Series I April 20-24, 2020 28-Apr-20
2 2020-21 Series II May 11-15, 2020 19-May-20
3 2020-21 Series III June 08-12, 2020 16-Jun-20
4 2020-21 Series IV July 06-10, 2020 14-Jul-20
5 2020-21 Series V August 03-07, 2020 11-Aug-20
6 2020-21 Series VI Aug. 31-Sept.04, 2020 8-Sep-20
(Source: Reserve bank of India)

Each of the tranche is offered for a limited subscription period, having a maturity tenure of 8 years and a lock-in period of 5 years

With an initial investment amount of Rs 20,000, resident individuals, Hindu Undivided Families (HUFs), Trusts, Universities and Charitable Institutions can subscribe to SGBs. The application can be also made by the guardian on behalf of the minor. One can purchase units from the secondary market as well.

The issue price of the SGB will be Rs 50 per gram less than the nominal value when applied online and the payment against the application is made through digital mode.

On maturity, the Gold Bonds shall be redeemed in Indian Rupees and the redemption price shall be based on a simple average of the closing price of gold of 999 purity of previous 3 business days from the date of repayment, published by the India Bullion and Jewellers Association Limited.

In order to encourage passive but direct gold investment, as an alternative to purchasing physical gold, Modi led Government sanctioned a Sovereign Gold Bond Scheme in November 2015. Under this scheme, investors have to pay the issue price in cash and the bonds will be redeemed in cash on maturity. The Bond is issued by the Reserve Bank on behalf of Government of India.

With the Sovereign Gold Bond Scheme, the risks and costs of physical storage are eliminated. Plus, it is free from issues like the costs of making charges and purity, as in the case of gold in jewellery form. But these bonds are held in the books of the RBI, or in demat form to eliminate even the risk of loss of scrip, etc.

Sovereign Gold Bonds will generate market returns linked to the price of gold, so there may be a risk of capital loss if the market price of gold declines. Moreover, these bonds will provide interest income at the rate of 2.50 per cent (fixed rate) per annum on the amount of initial investment to investors and will be redeemable.

The minimum investment allowed is 1 gram, while the maximum buying limit is a subscription of 4 kg for individuals, 4 kg for Hindu Undivided Family (HUF), and 20 kg for trusts and similar entities notified by the government from time to time per fiscal year (April - March).

These bonds are sold through offices or branches of Nationalised Banks, Scheduled Private Banks, Scheduled Foreign Banks, designated Post Offices, Stock Holding Corporation of India Ltd. (SHCIL), and the authorised stock exchanges, either directly or through their agents.

Do note, that the interest on the bonds is taxed as per the provisions of the Income-tax Act, 1961. If you hold the SGB till maturity the capital gains tax on redemption of SGB is exempted. But if you sold the bond in the secondary market after three years, long term capital gains (LTCGs) tax is applicable and it will be taxed at 20 per cent with indexation. And if sold before three years, a short-term capital gains (STCGs) tax will be applicable according to the income tax slab.

What should the investors do?

Defeating the Coronavirus and surviving is everyone's core focus and having liquidity, those who have an adequate contingency fund are looking for investments.

Equity and debt markets are yet to see any signs of revival despite the stimulating relief measures provided to uplift the slowing of economy but investing in gold can prove to be worthy for your portfolio.

[Read: What Could Be the Potential Impact of a Lockdown on Your Mutual Fund Portfolio? Know Here...]

Even the bond prices were at all-time lows, which are inversely proportional to gold as well. In my view allocate at least 10-15% of your entire investment portfolio to gold and hold it with a long-term investment horizon.

Remember gold offers an effective hedge during global uncertainty and a shield against inflation. Most importantly in your portfolio, it serves as a diversifier.



PersonalFN is a Mumbai based personal finance firm offering Financial Planning and Mutual Fund Research services.

Disclaimer:
The views mentioned above are of the author only. Data and charts, if used, in the article have been sourced from available information and have not been authenticated by any statutory authority. The author and Equitymaster do not claim it to be accurate nor accept any responsibility for the same. The views constitute only the opinions and do not constitute any guidelines or recommendation on any course of action to be followed by the reader. Please read the detailed Terms of Use of the web site.




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Michael Clarke spotted with fashion designer Pip Edwards, spark dating rumours again

Former Australia cricket captain Michael Clarke is reportedly still seeing fashion designer Pip Edwards, but doesn't want the world to know. According to British tabloid, The Daily Mail, Michael was spotted at Pip's apartment, but made a dash for it moments later.

Michael, nicknamed Pup, and Pip broke up earlier this month as the former cricketer was not too happy about the publicity that accompanied their relationship.  However, on Monday morning, he was spotted with Pip at Sydney's Bondi Beach.

It is learnt that the couple emerged from Pip's home in a black car at around 9am and drove to a nearby juice bar. Pip, who turned 40 on the day, then headed to collect their order, but on noticing the paparazzi, left in a huff, forgetting to pick their drinks.They then drove back to her place from where Michael took off on his motorbike. Later, Pip returned to the juice bar and picked up three juices.

Michael separated from his wife of seven years, Kyly in September last year. They have a daughter Kelsey Lee, four.Pip has a teenaged son Justice.

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1,426 new cases in Singapore, mostly foreign workers affected

Health officials in Singapore said on Monday that they reported a record 1,426 new Coronavirus cases, out of which 1,410 are foreign workers, including Indians residing in dormitories, health officials said. With the fresh cases, the total number of Coronavirus cases in the city-state stands at 8,014, the Ministry of Health said.

"We are still working through the details of the cases," said the ministry in a statement. A total of 18 foreign worker dormitories have been gazetted as isolation areas, as the number of COVID-19 cases continue to rise. As of Sunday, the cluster at S11 Dormitory at Punggol remained the biggest, with 1,508 confirmed cases.

The next biggest cluster was at Sungei Tengah Lodge, with 521 confirmed cases. Though the dormitories are being disinfected and bedding accommodation re-arranged, most of these were overcrowded, leading to a large number of cases as foreign workers are now undergoing screening and testing. All foreign workers in the construction sector have been placed on mandatory stay-home notices until May 4 as a precautionary measure against the spread of COVID-19.

The Ministry of Manpower and the Building and Construction Authority noted that while the recent rise in the number of infected foreign workers has mostly been concentrated in dormitories, there have been cases at construction sites.

SL won't relax curfew
The Sri Lankan government on Monday dropped its decision to relax the nationwide curfew and extended it to April 27 following a sudden spike of 41 cases in the past 24 hours.

1,410
No. of foreign workers

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This story has been sourced from a third party syndicated feed, agencies. Mid-day accepts no responsibility or liability for its dependability, trustworthiness, reliability and data of the text. Mid-day management/mid-day.com reserves the sole right to alter, delete or remove (without notice) the content in its absolute discretion for any reason whatsoever




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