Shot from village Timila in Ranikhet Tehsil of Uttarakhand

<strong>EXPECTATIONS</strong> Films directed by Abhishek Kapoor have traditionally carried good music. From <em>Rock On</em> to <em>Fitoor</em>, the music has been consistently impressive and has been as per the theme and setting of the film. Now that he is bringing on <em>Kedarnath</em> that marks the launch of Sara Ali Khan opposite Sushant Singh Rajput, one waits to hear what do composer Amit Trivedi and lyricist Amitabh Bhattacharya have to offer. <img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-926514" src="https://www.bollywoodhungama.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Petition-filed-in-Gujarat-High-Court-seeking-ban-on-Sushant-Singh-Rajput-Sara-Ali-Khan-starrer-Kedarnath.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="450" /> <strong>MUSIC</strong> There is something truly divine about the manner in which <strong><em>‘Namo Namo’</em></strong> begins. A devotional number which is truly devoid of any forced Bollywood inspirations, this one is a well rendered number by Amit Trivedi and makes an instant impression. A smooth sailing song that has a peaceful feel to it and is further accentuated due to the striking visuals that go alongside, ‘<em>Namo Namo’</em> can well be assured of a long shelf life amongst those who want to hear a devotional number first thing in the morning. A love song arrives next in the form of <strong><em>‘Qaafirana’</em></strong> and the mood and feel remains consistent with the kind of set up that Abhishek wanted to put together for <em>Kedarnath</em>. Moreover, there is certain director’s touch that is apparent in the way the tune has been composed, words have been written and especially the manner in which Arijit Singh has rendered this one. There are minimum instruments in the background as primarily it’s the voice and the core composition that takes centre stage which ensures that <em>‘Qaafirana’</em> turns out to be a soulful number that can be heard for a serene experience. What further adds to the beautiful melody is the manner in which Nikhita Gandhi makes a very good impression as a singer despite making a late entry. Things take a celebratory turn as Dev Negi enters the scene and croons <strong><em>‘Sweetheart’</em></strong>. A fun number which is just the kind that one could expect from a Karan Johar, Imtiaz Ali or Aditya Chopra film, this one is as Bollywood as it gets. As a matter of fact it also faintly reminds one of <em>‘Butterfly’</em> [<em>Jab Harry Met Sejal</em>] due to the kind of desi stage and setting that goes with the situation in which the song is set. This one could well have been picked up by Shah Rukh Khan, Ranbir Kapoor or Shahid Kapoor with glee and in that aspect Sushant Singh Rajput can well be happy about the fact that he bagged ‘Sweetheart’ which is a potential chartbuster. Arijit Singh returns on the scene, this time with <strong><em>‘Jaan ‘Nisaar’</em></strong> which appears in a couple of versions. A situational number where the male protagonist is trying to understand why his ladylove is unhappy with him and is trying to woo her all the way back, this one has a smooth flow to it which sees Indian melody being supported by Western instruments. That said the consistency of sound stays in the mood set so far in <em>Kedarnath</em>. Asees Kaur is the voice of the female version and this one somehow appears to be even slower. This is the kind of number that is good when heard in a stand-alone fashion though one can’t expect it to emerge as a chartbuster of sorts. <strong>OVERALL</strong> The music of <em>Kedarnath</em> is good and though it doesn’t have too many songs to result in a complete package affair, it is fine till it lasts. This one has the kind of music that could well grow on the basis of the success of the film. <strong>OUR PICK(S)</strong> <em>‘Namo Namo’</em>, <em>‘Qaafirana’</em>, <em>‘Sweetheart’</em>

The doors of the eleventh jyotirlinga at Kedarnath in the Garhwal Himalayas were opened at 6.10 am.

A result of the 2013 floods, which wreaked havoc and killed thousands of people, is that the river Mandakini, which passes the temple area disappears after a stretch

I happily strut on through the Gaurikund market where vendors pour hot chai and roll parathas for eager yatris freezing under their overalls. It is April 29, the first darshan of the season. I have set out at 4.45 am, dodging horses and men wearing pithoo baskets ready to carry pilgrims to the top. I am in the company of a rishi, who grins at my woollens. "It is going to be sunny today," she says, wrapping a rice-paper thin shawl over her white skirt and blouse.

The path is peppered with signboards advising yatris to check their pace

Trek record
A cobbled path begins where the kaccha road ends. A green signboard reads: Kedarnath 16 km. The 2013 flood washed away the old route. Uttarkashi's Nehru Institute of Mountaineering re-charted the route via Gaurikund and passing Jungle Chatti Bheembali and Linchauli to reach the basecamp. Then, another kilometre leads to the temple. Rain shelters, medical camps, bio toilets and potable water fountains appear frequently.

The path has toilets and food stalls and medical camps are regular intervals

When the going gets tough
Uphill, at gradient 8, I set a steady pace, holding onto an orange railing; matching the sparse spotting of crimson-red Buransh flowers in an otherwise green flora valley. The gushing of a waterfall and a dawn in the breaking lend a quietude broken by enthusiastic cries of "Jai Bhole!" and "Har Har Mahadev!". I stop at each signboard that advises walkers to take regular breaks. An hour of evening walk in the city, I realised, was not enough training to adjust to the thin air quality and keep the body supple.

The flood had washed away the old route

Giving up is easy
Ahead of me, a couple plonks onto a bench. "Aur kitna dur hai," the wife asks. A sweeper, cleaning the tracks, laughs, "Bas che ghante chalte jao. Upar mat dekho (Keep walking continuously for six hours. Don't look up to see how far it is)." By now, I have lost sight of my 58-year-old companion, who has kept a steady lead.
I stare at the green board that reads 14 km, the time is 5.30 am. A tendency to get cramps on my right leg, I am surprised it hasn't revolted yet. But there's a sharp pull in my thigh, a new pain on this new adventure. I think to myself: "Why did I sign up for this? Turn back. Just turn back." Probably from the distress look on my face, a woman on horseback sees me and screams from afar: "Don't give up. You will make it."

The tough get going
This is my first victory. To turn a deaf ear to my feet's pleads. By the time I make it to Bheembali, the road steepens. People who have finished their darshan shower encouraging words and promise the ever-winding road will smoothen. By the time I reach Kedarnath basecamp, the clouds have covered the peaks, and there's a light rain splatter. I follow a group through steep patches that help you cut the road time. Sometimes, I find myself on all fours, holding onto branches. My inspiration pool is slowly evaporating.

Miracles find you
In that moment, the clouds clear and the snow peaks make an appearance. It fills me with gratitude — for everything that is right and wrong in my life. The walk down to the confluence of the Mandakini and Saraswati and dip my hands in the icy cold water. I skip the line to the temple, bow to the dhwaj on the temple and turn around for the road downhill.

A walk to remember
The rains have washed the muddy road and turned it into a sludge fest. I follow a couple and their son down a 'short cut' which catches me off-guard. It is open to the valley, and one wrong step will have me tumbling down. This descent is long but we walk it with a joyous gait. The burden was my own uphill, but now, it is ours to share.

8
No. of hours it takes in a state-run bus from Rishikesh to Sonprayag

Adventure & Religious
Tour & taste
Food and Leisure
Relaxing
Educational

The portals of Kedarnath Temple were thrown open at 6.10 am on Wednesday after a six-month-long winter break. Amid the nationwide lockdown, pilgrims are prohibited from visiting the shrine. Covered in a thick layer of snow, the temple was decorated with 10 quintals of marigold flowers.

The process of opening the doors of Kedar Dham began at 3 am. Shiva Shankar Linga, the chief priest of the shrine, carried out the tradition of opening the doors. The first ''pooja" was performed in the name of the Prime Minister Narendra Modi, said a statement. A representative of the Devasthanam Board, BD Singh, along with 20 employees from Panchagai, was present here when the religious rituals and aarti were performed. Apart from this, around 15 policemen and administration officials participated in the aarti. All participants maintained social distancing during the rituals.

Meanwhile, Uttarakhand Chief Minister Trivendra Singh Rawat has extended warm wishes to the devotees and administration of the shrine. He prayed for everyone's good health and happiness. "With the blessings of Baba Kedar, we will surely be able to defeat corona. This time devotees could not visit the shrine but Lord Kedar's blessings are with us," he said.

This year Army band did not participate in the religious ceremony at a time of opening the portals of the shrine due to lockdown restrictions.

With the opening of the doors of Kedarnath Dham, three of the four dhams of Uttarakhand will be opened. While Gangotri-Yamunotri Dham opened on April 26 on the occasion of Akshaya Tritiya, the portals of Badrinath Dham will open on May 15.

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Kedarnath valley residents threatened to boycott polls if they are not relocated soon.